Cold Heat Pro
Cold Heat Pro
Has anyone used the Cold Heat Pro soldering iron? Any feedback? Thanks!
Not the pro version, but the standard version. Works ok, great for when
you don't have access to AC power and not worrying about fine
electronics (ie - only larger stuff like wires, switches etc.). Only gripe so
far is that the tips are prone to breakage. My son did all the switches on
his science fair robot controller with it on 2 sets of batteries.
CeaSaR
you don't have access to AC power and not worrying about fine
electronics (ie - only larger stuff like wires, switches etc.). Only gripe so
far is that the tips are prone to breakage. My son did all the switches on
his science fair robot controller with it on 2 sets of batteries.
CeaSaR
Hey, what do I know?
It's a good concept, but my tip broke twice before I had a chance to use it for anything serious. ...unfortunately, I haven't been able to find replacement tips in a retail store in British Columbia, Canada (I know US RadioShack carries them). If anyone HAS seen them in the Lower Mainland of BC, please use the e-mail link and let me know.
The one thing I have heard (don't ask me where) is that they may work, but they're still in the realm of the gadgety, and as such, they're not the best for "serious" work. (e.g. hobbyists yes, corporations no)
The one thing to consider is that replacement tips are $10 a pop, so you might want to buy it from somewhere that will let you *return* it if it proves too much of a hassle.
The one thing I have heard (don't ask me where) is that they may work, but they're still in the realm of the gadgety, and as such, they're not the best for "serious" work. (e.g. hobbyists yes, corporations no)
The one thing to consider is that replacement tips are $10 a pop, so you might want to buy it from somewhere that will let you *return* it if it proves too much of a hassle.
Hi,
I have the regular version too and so does a friend of mine
and we both got ours at Costco when they were on sale.
We both had the same problem...it's hard to get it to make enough
heat because you have to have near perfect contact to the work
and that's not very easy. Yes it's possible, but it's such a pain that
i havent used it more than maybe twice since i had it and i had it for
maybe 4 years now. I havent broken the tip however.
If you are going to be doing some serious soldering you really need
a good iron. If you are doing large work then a large iron, small work
then a small iron. For both you need both irons or different size tips
at least. I have one large and one small, and also a large gun as well
as the "Cold heat" thing.
I guess my overall opinion is that i just dont like it because it is
too finicky. I did use it to solder alligator clips back onto test leads,
but even for that i think i would rather break out the real irons and
do it right.
I was an interesting invention i think, but often it's just too hard to
get the tip to make the proper contact to the work. The way it works
is the iron puts out a rather large current and the current heats the work.
In order to get that current to flow however, you need a good electrical
contact with the work and sometimes the work is dirty and it wont solder
at all, while a 'regular' iron still heats the work and the flux in the solder
cleans it. The flux can only get to the work when the solder is heated
so you have to have the heat before you get the flux cleaning.
I have the regular version too and so does a friend of mine
and we both got ours at Costco when they were on sale.
We both had the same problem...it's hard to get it to make enough
heat because you have to have near perfect contact to the work
and that's not very easy. Yes it's possible, but it's such a pain that
i havent used it more than maybe twice since i had it and i had it for
maybe 4 years now. I havent broken the tip however.
If you are going to be doing some serious soldering you really need
a good iron. If you are doing large work then a large iron, small work
then a small iron. For both you need both irons or different size tips
at least. I have one large and one small, and also a large gun as well
as the "Cold heat" thing.
I guess my overall opinion is that i just dont like it because it is
too finicky. I did use it to solder alligator clips back onto test leads,
but even for that i think i would rather break out the real irons and
do it right.
I was an interesting invention i think, but often it's just too hard to
get the tip to make the proper contact to the work. The way it works
is the iron puts out a rather large current and the current heats the work.
In order to get that current to flow however, you need a good electrical
contact with the work and sometimes the work is dirty and it wont solder
at all, while a 'regular' iron still heats the work and the flux in the solder
cleans it. The flux can only get to the work when the solder is heated
so you have to have the heat before you get the flux cleaning.
LEDs vs Bulbs, LEDs are winning.
I admit I haven't got one but from previous threads my impression was that it was unsuited to microelectronic work because it was not ESD grounded and the tip was too awkward to work on small connections.
Upon relecting on how this thing works I want to ask those who do have one: Does it work well on larger metal objects that would normally heatsink a traditional hot tipped iron. This thing creates heat by essentially shorting current through the metal you are trying to solder, not very unlike welding. In any case, I want to know if this can create a good solder joint under the special conditions of either a large contact or heavy gague wire where you would normally need a large iron (like 50W). Ever try to solder a #12 wire to a sheet of copper for example?
I prefer butane irons for portable use.
Upon relecting on how this thing works I want to ask those who do have one: Does it work well on larger metal objects that would normally heatsink a traditional hot tipped iron. This thing creates heat by essentially shorting current through the metal you are trying to solder, not very unlike welding. In any case, I want to know if this can create a good solder joint under the special conditions of either a large contact or heavy gague wire where you would normally need a large iron (like 50W). Ever try to solder a #12 wire to a sheet of copper for example?
I prefer butane irons for portable use.
Jeam,
I don't know about BC, but MCM has tips in their catalog. Go to
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/ and look for catalog
#'s 96-2145, 96-2150 and 96-2155. All are on sale now for
$10.95 USD, normally $11.95 USD (use source code 710A12 til
Nov. 9 2007). At least you'll be able to order them.
CeaSaR
I don't know about BC, but MCM has tips in their catalog. Go to
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/ and look for catalog
#'s 96-2145, 96-2150 and 96-2155. All are on sale now for
$10.95 USD, normally $11.95 USD (use source code 710A12 til
Nov. 9 2007). At least you'll be able to order them.
CeaSaR
Hey, what do I know?
for what it's worth, 'resistance heating 'does have it's place, but it's not the soldering toy being sold. We use resistance heating to do precision brazing, with heavy carbon electrodes and high current transformers. Although more costly, for portable soldering the butane powered soldering irons outperform the 'Cold Heat', hands down. Plus, you can refill it in a flash, (pun intended) use a small point, use a hot air stream or a flame, all from the same tool just by changing the tips.
Len
Len
Thanks
Thanks to all for the good feedback on the Cold Heat Pro. It's kind of what I was thinking, I guess -- an interesting notion, but maybe not quite ready for prime time, at least not on pc boards and such.
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