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Hello, all
I have a 2004 Yamaha R1 which I bought salvage and I am putting together. I had the bike running with no problems and started up every time. I recently replaced the battery because the other was the original and didn't even have enough charge to start the bike. I also recently replaced the gas tank and installed the fuel pump from the old gas tank into the used/new to me tank. No issues plugging everything back in. Installed that today and when I went to start the bike, I got nothing. The fuel pump didn't even turn on and was no electricity at all. Don't even get the starter relay clicking noise that you would hear if the battery is low on charge and doesn't have enough to turn over.

Checked all the fuses and those checked out fine there. The battery is perfect and has plenty of charges. I used a test lead to check all the connections on the bike and the starter relay was the only one that didn't check out good because I was still confused after reading the Complete Start Relay Basics Overview (content source: blog, here some ideas are easy but no example diagrams explained)

Any other thoughts as to what it could be. Thank you in advance.

The link does not apply. It is for starting AC motors in refrigerators and air conditioners.

No issues plugging everything back in.

That would not seem to be the case.

Does fuel pump run with temporary wire from battery? (disconnect the normal hot wire first)

Same experiment with starter motor? (neutral gear and normal hot wire off)

Cheers,

I suggest you get a set of the electrical drawings for the bike. Check on-line for them and, there is a Yamaha R1 forum that may be helpful. Hit and miss is a technique that depends more on luck than skill. If you don't have proper test equipment, get it, or make it. A a simple 12 volt bulb indicator and continuity tester likely will get you through. Make no tests unless you know the possible outcomes, right or wrong, and the reason for either.
Follow the drawing from the power source to the associated circuits and confirm that the power is where it is expected to be.
Lastly, take your time. Most problems are easily resolved once you get on the trail.
Post back with specific questions for the most help!

sounds like you induced an open circuit somewhere in the wiring harness during the assembly process. You'll need to trace the 12V from source through switches to loads to see where it can't get through. Are there any fusible links, they act like fuses but aren't always obvious. Check ground as well as power paths

I agree that you should check, check, and recheck your connections. Since you had all of those things working before, that is what the symptom suggests. Because it is so widely affected, I believe you are missing you main ground. Or, as hacklesup mentioned, a fusible link may have gone due to an inadvertent cross-wire.

Start at the battery and check for continuity from negative to the frame (or wherever the ground goes). If good, move on to the positive side and use the test light to check for power at each successive junction. You'll find it eventually.

Thank you for you replies.
Started at basics and went over all the fuses again. Turns out it was the 50amp fuse. Guess my eye sight isn't as good as it once was. Most dealers are out of that but was able to find it at a dealer over an hour from my house, if not would have had to wait about a week for it. Found a posting online saying it was available at Napa but went in and they didn't have it and wasn't in their books.

Markkim,

Is the fuse a specialty fuse?
Example:
Fast acting 50 Amp.
Slow Blow 50 Amp.

Since you know what the fuse is.
I'd go to your local Auto Parts Store and look for a Fuse that has the same rating.
But the physical shape of the fuse is different.
Example:
Bolt in.

Newer Blade Style.


Purchase the new Fuse Holder and Fuse that fits it.
Replace the old Fuse Holder with the newer Fuse holder.

Now you can more easily replace the blown fuse, with one from your local auto parts store.
Instead of trying to hunt down the old style fuse.


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