cable tech help

[IRONMAN]

I have an old jerrold dpv7212 and the damn thing seems to have locked up, I.E. it will only switch between channel 00 or 01 and show the t.v. guide channel. Is the box broken? I've already tried unplugging it and plugging back in to see if it was some sort of soft-ware problem, no luck.
Please help.
Thanks Guys
Shelby.

[geewiz]

Is the box raw, that is not chips installed or external testers used? Off the top of my head I would say tuner went bad or box's channel mapping off. Below is info on Jerrold error codes that may help you pinpoint the problem:<p>
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Jerrold Error Codes<p>The set-top can display several diagnostic modes. The modes are entered by using the buttons on the top of the set-tops terminal or the remote control buttons and pressing two keys in sequence.<p>code:
Mode Keys to Press Sequentially

Error code display F + 0
Dynamic diagnostics (one way) F + 1
Serial number/firmware version F + 2
Firmware version F + 3<p>Error Code Display<p>E0
Indicates normal condition after initialization.<p>
E1
If the Timer Mode = ON, then this error indicates the converter has not received a Reset Time-out command.<p>If the Timer Mode = OFF, then this error indicates the converter has not received a good FM packet.<p>
E2 Not Used<p>E3 Not Used<p>
E4
Illegal terminal. The set-top failed the Legal Terminal test.<p>
E5
Default address. The set-top contains the default address due to a Clear Address command.<p>
E6 Not Used<p>
E7
The set-top has a faulty or wrong (defeat attempt) ROM installed or an incorrect initialization procedure.<p>
E8
The set-top is installed in a system for which it is not initialized (wrong site code).<p>
E9
Invalid serial number<p>
EA
The set-top has a faulty RAM or a dead battery. This error occurs if the battery fails to keep the RAM alive during a power down. The error causes the set-top to disconnect and its barker channel to be set at 106.5 MHz.<p>Initialize the set-top to clear the error. If the error persists, the unit is in need of repair. <hr></blockquote><p>[ May 17, 2003: Message edited by: geewiz ]</p>

[IRONMAN]

geewiz;
I tried the error code mode, and got E0. honestly
the box at one time had an RFT hooked up to it (not by me!) but was connected straight to the cable when it went nuts, by the way I was changing channels with a denon universal remote when this happened, I've heard of different remotes putting jerrold boxes into modes that are'nt even supposed to be there, just a thought.
a "bullet" from the cable company would'nt do this would it?
the only other thing I can think that might have happened is that the unit was sitting on top of a VERY large speaker, and I forgot about it and turned the volume a wee bit to loud, are they that sensitive?<p>Anyway thanks for helping.
shelby.

[geewiz]

I don't think shielding is an issue; I have a Jerrold & Pioneer opened and amidst speakers and a mad tangle of wire, and both units functional. How long between use of RFT and straight cable connection? It could be a matter of invalid serial number programmed into unit. If that's the case, a $10 chip and a few minutes w/ soldering iron should get the box back up. Or you can get ahold of a 509 PIC and using commonly available s'ware, program the chip yourself. Note that although most users are successful proramming the PIC themselves, I'm still having problems.

[IRONMAN]

geewhiz;
O.K. I'll be honest, I had the RFT hooked up( I did'nt know if it was a good idea to say so.) however it was'nt hooked up for several days when the box locked up, and the box is a rental from the cable company. I think I'll buy my own (any suggestions where to find them reasonable?).
And what about those RFT's? mine was giving good service. I did'nt program any serial codes into the RFT (unecesarry with my box.).
I guess I could return the box for service.<p>Thanks again.
Shelby.

[geewiz]

Ironman, it's my understanding that RFT's re-write the serial number of the unit being tested. Have you tried re-using the RFT? What results? Also, have you tried leaving the box unplugged for a day, then leaving it connected to the system overnight and see igf it re-initializes (this works on Pioneer units in TWC country). Another option would be calling your caco and telling them something like you've been out of town for a few days and had guests (friends/family/college students) staying at your place. You could also say that you unplugged the box for fear of said guest(s) abusing PPVs and upon return discovered box malfunctioning. Come up with a good excuse. System should then try to rehit box, and if that fails, replace unit. If they can't rehit the unit, they'll know box has been tampered with. <p>Moot now, but NEVER "test" a caco-owned box. Raw Jerrolds (and others) can be had for$10-$30 nowadays. I've gotten some units @ $9.99 Buy-it-Now @ eBay. You can also try www.ezcatv.com (good, trustworthy site; no afilliation with me)where "test-aids" and raw converters can be had cheap. <p>Also, a good site for info is id-discussions.com. There's a forum there where many more knowledgable than I can answer just about any related query.

[IRONMAN]

geewhiz;
I tried unplugging unit over-night, then tried leaving it connected all night, no luck (was a good idea though.).
I hunted up the RFT's "manual"(by the way don't EVER buy anything from 007cable.com, NO customer service.) apparently I'm not supposed to program a serial #,(only have to do that with the CFT22XX series of jerrolds).
What about parental control? could I have in-advertently locked the damn thing?(I don't have the remote, was using a DENON brand universal when it locked-up.)
Also there is apparently a tamper switch in them, and as I said it was sitting on a speaker that was vibratting it around pretty good.
I am at a loss.
I do appreciate your help, if you ever take up weight-lifting let me know, i'll set you up with the company I buy supplements from(whole-sale).
If you come up with ANYTHING please let me know,
in the interim i'll probably buy a raw box and use it with my RFT, keeping it plugged in this time.
by the way my RFT flashes J then E instead of L,
in normal power-up mode, is this just a design change or an error code? like I said I can't get a response from the a**-holes I bought it from.<p>[ May 21, 2003: Message edited by: IRONMAN ]</p>

[IRONMAN]

Hey I was scoping out id.discussions.com, in one of your post there you mention your box blinking "on" when you flip it on, thats what my stupid box is doing when i turn it on, then if I change the channel it goes to "00" or "01" and nothing else.
Very frustrating.

[geewiz]

The blinking "0n" issues I've had were either related to improperly programmed PICs that I did myself, or incorrect data connection. Haven't heard /read of any other case where this occuured with just RFT use. Now, did your "0n" issue occured after last use of RFT? Also, just took a look a t a 'bible"; the 7212 don't have a tamper switch. Was the box ever chipped? If so, maybe a data jumper wasn't re-solder securely.

[IRONMAN]

No it happened when the RFT was disconnected(probably would'nt have happened if I'd left it hooked up.). As far as being chipped no it's a caco box, I did break up with someone recently, and possibly she turned me in, would the cable people lock up the box?
I browsed ezcatv.com, they currently only have the jerrold cft 20xx box (very reasonable) would one of those work with my RFT? and would it KEEP working?

[geewiz]

ezcatv does have cheap units. eBay may some some even cheaper offerings. Regarding the RFT working on the cft20xx, I can only assume so. have only used RFTs on Pio boxes, and they worked across all units, so I assume the Jerrolds are the same.<p>PS: If you're gonna go woith ezcatv, you may as well pick up on of their quickboards. Note that you will get no tech support directly form them. However, I do believe someone from over there frequents id-discussions. I've received help on ezcatv units from a member there.<p>[ May 23, 2003: Message edited by: geewiz ]</p>

[IRONMAN]

Geewhiz;
Do you mean the 3 wire and 4 wire "test aids"?(9.99 & 12.99 respectively).
I assume they are added to the circuitry somehow to enable descrambling? Is that what's called "chiping the box? Do they come with a schematic or diagram?( I'm actually very well versed in electronics per-se, I'm just a newbie to cable systems.).
I guess I'll have to buy that damn jerrold screw driver bit also.
And which one should I purchase the 3 wire or the 4 wire, and whats the difference?
One more thing check out this site;
ccelectronix.com
what do you think? would buying one of their universal boxes be better than modifying one my self?
Not trying to be annoying, I just want to do it right this time, The RFT cost me 89 bucks, wish I had researched the subject before I did that.<p>Thanks again.<p>[ May 27, 2003: Message edited by: IRONMAN ]</p>

[geewiz]

IRONMAN, chipping means installing a "test aid" into unit. Relatively easy to do. One wire to 5V, another to ground and the other one to one side of data jumper (if using a 4-wire, the fourth goes to the other side of data jumper). You'll also need a NC momentary switch connected to jumpers on the quickboard. This switch will cycle thru scrambling modes when unit is running (it may take 256 presses of switch to get picture to descramble). Lastly, you can depress switch while plugging unit in to select HRC, IRC, STD if necessary. <p>As for difference 'tween 3 & 4 wire, I made an inquiry over @ ID and have not received a response. I've seen no difference on units I've tested. It may be dependent on the system used in a given market.<p>Regarding universal boxes: they only cover analog, so always limited to 125 channels. They may not remap at all, so channel numbers are going to be all over the place (eg ch2 could be ch22 or other on universal unit). They may work for months or years, then suddenly quit when systems changes; nothing you can do with them after that, short of moving to another market. Some units I've seen use expansion cards (like PCs) that you would purchase for a particuliar system/market. <p>For bits, I have a 32 piece security bit set, and not one of 'em works of Jerrolds or Pioneers. Snap-On tools may have what you want. If you frequently see their vans around, show/describe the bit to them and you may luck out. Otherwise, you'll pay (I've seen em for like $20!)

[IRONMAN]

Yeah it's pretty sad when a screwdriver bit cost almost twice the price of the box!
I'm going to go ahead and purchase a box and a "test aid"(and of course the stupid bit.).
then i'll use the RFT for now(keeping it plugged in this time, so the caco ca'nt shut the box down), then when I have time i'll take it apart and install the test aid, if by some chance the RFT locks it up the test aid should make it operational again, right?
As to the caco box, I think i'll just say it went out during a storm, and return it, I dont think the RFT locked it up, and I do'nt think they could prove that an external device was attached to it(I hope.).
One more question, what's a good book on the subject of descramblers? I learn best from a good manual.<p>Thanks again for all your help.

[Chris Smith]

If the security screws are "torex" [star] with a center pin which block a standard bit from being inserted, just snap off the center bit with a small screwdriver, and then use a standard torex driver. Also Grind down a small screwdriver to wedge in-between the center bit and the wall, and extract the screw that way. Then Replace the screw with a standard Phillips type. There is not a single "security" screw, that cant be hacked!