Fuse problems

[cheapNdisgusting]

I would like to thank everyone for all the information and advice. I've learned some really neat things to try, and will work at it tomorrow.<p>Most of all, (again) I've enjoyed all the friendly and courteous replies.<p>Thanks again.

[terri]

Will: Using the current meter on the 10A scale without any fuse at all is like using a 10 A fuse.<p>In this particular topic, we know why the fuse blew, but if the reason is unknown (e.g. something goofy in the set) you run the risk of burning up even more stuff because the only protection you have is the fuse in the meter itself --which must be greater than the 10 A full scale current of the meter.

[jwax]

Will has it- to determine current, use an ammeter.
Add 20-30% to the running current, and use a slow blow.

[terri]

If it was running right in the first place. As I said, in this case, we know why the fuse blew. If one did not know why it blew, sticking am ammeter in the circuit would be just like running it with no fuse at all, except of course for the fuse in the ammeter itself. <p>The advice about calculating the approximate correct draw from the power (wattage) rating of the appliance is the best approach if the fuse popped for an unknown reason. One hundred watts, one Amp, more or less, for a 110V appliance.<p>[ September 09, 2005: Message edited by: terri ]</p>