Electrically conductive paint

Ken1 · Post by **Ken1** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 3:58 pm

Hi, Is there an electrically conductive paint or similar substance on the market? I broke a slide type pot and it's a dual element with 2 different resistances for each element. I broke it next to one end and I can glue it together but I need an electrically conductive paint to complete the broken resistive circuits. The slider won't be riding over the place where it broke.

CeaSaR · Post by **CeaSaR** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 4:06 pm

Hi Ken1,

I'm not sure about paint, but the product discussed in this thread might
be of use. Out of curiosity's sake, what is the pot used in? It's a
nonstandard part, that's for sure.

CeaSaR

Ken1 · Post by **Ken1** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 4:22 pm

The pot is in a climate control module in a vehicle. I was taking it apart to replace some burned out indicator bulbs. The knob on the pot was so tough to remove that try as I might, I could not get it off without breaking the pot. Then I had enough of the handle exposed to grasp it with pliers and wiggle and pull the knob off.

Janitor Tzap · Post by **Janitor Tzap** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 5:22 pm

Oh-Boy.....
I'd forget about trying too fix that slider control Pot.

Even if you are able to fix the connection with something like say.
Nickle Print Paint.
After just a few slides with the control, it would open up the crack again.

Your better off to call the local Auto Recycler.
{Not called Junk Yards any more.}
And ask them if then have the Fan Control for your model vehicle.
Or simply ask if they have that model vehicle.
Then go, and pull the part yourself.
Normally the fan/heat control come as a complete module.
So, it's easier to take out the whole module.
Than trying to disassemble the module just just for the one control.

Signed: Janitor Tzap

MrAl · Post by **MrAl** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 6:18 pm

Hi there,

They make much better stuff than that Wire Glue, like conductive
epoxy, which i think might work for your app, but any of that should
be backed up with some regular epoxy just to hold everything
together for a longer time duration.
The better stuff is more expensive but that's life i guess.
Check the conductivity first however, as it varies widely and
is not a function of price.
Of course this all assumes that you dont want to just buy a new
or used part.

sofaspud · Post by **sofaspud** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 1:05 pm

Seems to me that if the mechanical repair can be made, then using a conductive pen (forgot the brand names, check web or catalogs) would take care of the electrical repair.

Bob Scott · Post by **Bob Scott** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 1:24 pm

Then there is also the conductive paint used to repair rear automotive window "toasters" (defrosters, defoggers). It is available in copper or silver paint. I don't know if they still sell the copper stuff because although it worked, the repair didn't last long in the high amperage areas. It should be good for a pot though.

Janitor Tzap wrote:Your better off to call the local Auto Recycler.
{Not called Junk Yards any more.}

...which means the "recycled parts" cost 10X more than at a business operating as wrecking yard.

Bigglez · Post by **Bigglez** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 1:52 pm

Ken1 wrote:Hi, Is there an electrically conductive paint or similar substance on the market?

This topic came up a few weeks ago, check this thread

Janitor Tzap · Post by **Janitor Tzap** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 5:15 pm

Bob Scott wrote:
Janitor Tzap wrote:Your better off to call the local Auto Recycler.
{Not called Junk Yards any more.}
...which means the "recycled parts" cost 10X more than at a business operating as wrecking yard.

I don't know what Salvage Yards you go to Bob.
But around here a good used part costs far less than going to a dealer ship.

Example:
I had a 1998 Dodge Stratus that the rear tail light assembly that got damaged
in a parking lot.
The Local Dodge Dealer wanted $300.00 for it.
The local Salvage Yard only wanted $63.00 for a good used one.
Thus I saved $237.00 on the part.

Note: Each Salvage Yard will price a part differently.
So, you should check with several Yards before you purchase the part.

Signed: Janitor Tzap

haklesup · Post by **haklesup** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:44 am

Note: Each Salvage Yard will price a part differently.
So, you should check with several Yards before you purchase the part.

Last time I went to one, the guy was networked with a bunch of other yards and was able to find one part on his lot and for the other he told me to go to another lot and was even able to tell me how much it would cost there or I could come back tomorrow and he would have it there. My impression was they did have fixed prices for at least some things and that the network was not just local. (FYI, heater control panel and an arm rest)

Janitor Tzap · Post by **Janitor Tzap** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 11:08 am

haklesup wrote:
Note: Each Salvage Yard will price a part differently.
So, you should check with several Yards before you purchase the part.
Last time I went to one, the guy was networked with a bunch of other yards and was able to find one part on his lot and for the other he told me to go to another lot and was even able to tell me how much it would cost there or I could come back tomorrow and he would have it there. My impression was they did have fixed prices for at least some things and that the network was not just local. (FYI, heater control panel and an arm rest)

Yeah, that is true.
Most Salvage Yards are are now networked together.
But the price from one yard to another is almost always a bit different.

A Short Automotive Story.
A few years back, I took out my 95 Plymouth Acclaim.
The morning temp was -30F.
Upon putting the transmission into gear, there was this horrible sound of grinding metal.
I brought it to my Tranny Guy right away.
He put it up on the lift, and dropped the Transmission Pan.
It was full of metal shavings from the gears.

Well, he got on his parts network, and found a good used transmission for $500.00.
But, he said that the price range for my transmission varied from place to place.
Also, He gave me the choice of a rebuilt transmission for $1300.00.
Or a new factory direct transmission for $2500.00.

Well, I went with the used transmission, but I told him to replace all gaskets and seals with new ones.
All together with the Tranny, new Gaskets, Seals, filter, Oil, and labor.
$800.00

Signed: Janitor Tzap

Robert Reed · Post by **Robert Reed** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 3:45 pm

Its not only private repair shops doing that. Mr Goodwrench of GM fame replaced the body computer in my Blazer instead of new GM parts. $300 GM ; $125 salvage. I don't think I have to tell you which one I had him order & install.

R&DA · Post by **R&DA** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 11:24 am

In reply to the quest for electrically conductive paints:
what exists on the marketplace is Silver filled paints, quite expensive, also
Copper filled paints, less expensive but trnish to green over time, also
Carbon filled paints, inexpensive, but of high resistivity and good only for sloooow leakaway of static electricity, also
mixes of various conductive materials in a paint system, also
the NEW KID ON BLOCK: something I just made, a medium to low cost paint, having a Resistivity of .0003333 ohms/sqmm of crossectional area, measured from a 2 cm wide painted stripe, 20 meters long, .3 mm thick, giving from end to end a Resistance of 2 ohms.

Compare with electrostatically dissipative paints, jus' google that and then contact me at [email protected] if interested.

jwax · Post by **jwax** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:05 pm

Welcome to the forum, R&DA!
What is the conductive medium of your composition, copper, silver?
Do you have data on max current density?
Curing temperature, or air dry?
John

Bigglez · Post by **Bigglez** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 3:12 pm

R&DA wrote: something I just made, a medium to low cost paint, having a Resistivity of .0003333 ohms/sqmm of crossectional area

What is that in "ohms per square" (the industry standard
for resistive coating measurements)?

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