Arc fault interrupter breakers.

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perfectbite
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Arc fault interrupter breakers.

Post by perfectbite »

I wrote a detailed post but, after maybe five or six paragraphs of background information it simply disappeared and I won't bother re-writing it.

I know how more information is always requested here and we both lost out.

My question was,,,,,,

What is the thinking and technology behind the new Arc fault circuit breakers? Is it a problem solver as in a seemingly conjoined 120VAC phase A and phase A circuits giving two 20 amp circuit breakers that are parrelled and give 40 AMPS total draw on what is supposed to be a 20AMP circuit breaker due to electrical errors that were made in successive kitchen remodelling add ons from the originally built 1940s era house in the1950s and the late 1980s?
dyarker
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Post by dyarker »

Is this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arc-fault_ ... nterrupter what you're refering to? Though that talks about protection for bedrooms.

For protection in wet areas (kitchen, bath, outdoors) you'd want ground fault interuption.

For two phase circuits, the handles are mechanically linked so a problem on one of the phases also disconnects the other phase for that branch.

Cheers,
Dale Y
perfectbite
Posts: 255
Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2003 1:01 am
Location: California
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Post by perfectbite »

Thank you Dale (are you still inTurkey?)

I wish it were that simple but the breakers aren't near each other. The householder seems to think that I am making a fuss about nothing even though her fridge's hinges are live with tramp votage (24 VAC) when her fridge is on because someone put a ceramic bodied three pin plug in a 120VAC outlet that had no ground connection which perhaps gives you an idea of what I have to work with.

Even though it seemed to have gone over her head or in one ear and out the other, I told her that my intent was not to put in anyone in danger of being electrocuted or setting her house on fire.

(I shouted at her when she told me that the light was on (I nearly twisted my neck off to look behind me when she told me that the light was on when she meant that the switch was working but to me meant I had been working with live 120VAC which I don't mind if I know that I am working on live 120VAC) but her naming of the line and neutral holes in the AC receptacle as positive and negative was the last straw.)

You would think that someone over sixty would know better but I guess not. What should have been quite a straightforward 120 VAC lamp switch changeover instead turned out to be a tar baby 120/240VAC/20AMP 40AMP electrical swamp.
dyarker
Posts: 1917
Joined: Fri Aug 22, 2003 1:01 am
Location: Izmir, Turkiye; from Rochester, NY
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Post by dyarker »

Yeap, still in Turkey.
Dale Y
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