hi once again...
i have very little exp with DLP projectors
i have one here , the owner thought it needed a new lamp,,but the lamp does not look bad, nor does the LAMP indicator light.. i seen some that the indicator lights up when its about time to replace the lamp.
this one here.. SHARP - "notevision" model - XR-10S
when plugged up, the unit clicks on / off then the red power led just sits there blinking about once per second...
anyone got any exp with these ? also is there a way to test the lamp ?
or is the blinking red power led a code possibly ?
thanks...
need projector help
.
Well...well...well, welcome to the new world of BIGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG BUX....looks like you are into as much moonlighting activity as I just normally get corralled into by scientific-eng-tech-business-associates...... along with my countless relatives, neighbors, etc.
And the first question in order would be the time of use that unit has received. A major cost of the unit is that special high intensity lamp it uses. Probably in the order of a min of ~$260 on UPWARDS, computing/depending on the proper "gouge factor".(NO..its not $31 your wholesale cost and a 800% markup).
If it has had a hard failure...looking at the small centered glass "stick" and its end electrode centered within the inner lamp parabola..it can take out the starter/ ballast / regulator electronics with it with NO activity after that. In the aforementioned situation the center glass support stick breaks and falls loose and you can visually see that or hear it rattle when being handled.
Those lamps typically fall out of the warranty period, classified as expendibles, unless you warrant them separately. I Saw one go out in less than a year, usually 2000hrs is in order or I have seen failure in 1000 hrs.
That being particularly so, if one is not using the subdued lamp saver mode or woe be the person that uses that set as a "baby sitter" or merely for background music like a "radio".
Soooooo if you are ready to take out a funding loan..... against your ultra-light, I can say that the two items that I have already mentioned could set you back in the order of half a kilobuck. To do an initial analysisof the unit , requires a lap-top and a service program CD and then after some degree of study you can plug in and query its BITE (Built in test equipment) to get the most common service menu failure modes...e.g.:
0 : Normal,
1 : Temp High,
2 : Fan Error,
4 : Lamp Cover Open,
8 : Lamp Life 5% or less,
16 : Lamp Burnt-out,
32 : Lamp Ignition Failure,
64 : Temp Abnormally High
Thus, being able to somewhat zero in on your initial analysis. Then its BUY, plug in and play time.(Eventually praying for the best) Which is basically what the big box/store electronics merchandisers do, owing to the complexity of the present state of this technology...versus the technical expertise level of support personnel...woefully abject.
One thing that you might abort to, in an analysis, is the resetting of the lamp timeout feature with the remote, and give the unit a try.....basically the bad end result is the eventual failure of the lamp with the knocking out of the additional support electronics that I had mentioned earlier. (Ref following svc data)
If all works out , then figure on getting and replacement with a new lamp and a system u/p reseting of the timer for an operational system again.
Basically what you would be doing then is inquiring of the owner...considering that he cannot be EXACTING on the systems precise time of use....about a new lamp replacement now , if the old one will fire up again. Seems like if he is going to keep the system in the future , lamp replacements are in the future for sure , he's just getting an early start on his impending financial drudge.
My worst case scenario is having been referred to a client...(ask Edd, he can fix anything?..now really ??? much in the vein ...a.. la "Try Mikey, he'll eat ANYTHING !..commercial ) who had bought a manse...circa 14.2 mil...that formerly belonged to a Enron type of shady character.
That manse, very initially, was the additions SHOWCASE model home with all ...rpt...ALL the bells and whistles. A cluster of 12 monitors on the security system as well as their RF remoting to any TV receiver. Multi access of Stereo/FM/AM/CD/DVD in all rooms. The home theater room with all its equipment was using a 100 in screen for its projection system.
An evaluation of the unit revealed a slight lightning hit...no meltee..meltee, just, no workee..workee. and the previous owner fixed nothing….. OR..... pocketed the insurance money . Plus, my new person knew nothing until my evaluation. I ended up using about a month of my spare time getting a $5k Dennon video/audio control system working again by laboriously hand mapping its circuitry.. since schemas were $60 plus additional $40 for microfiche.
I got that systems 6 chan x 100 watts audio going again with its 4 video channels + SVHS video switching capabilities.
On the systems large projo unit, I was only able to get just the ballast regulator/ SMPS up and working again on the Telex $12,000 media projector. There it sits , gifted to me after I eventually had to suggest the purchase and use of the same brand and model of media projo we successfully use at the collegiate site.
I see that we used to have that Sharp at one collegiate site and can give you some info on it via the separate referencing, or I have also composed in Adobe for E-mail, in the interim why not just ref to:
http://www.oconee.k12.sc.us/it/techweb/10_20_E.PDF
(6.2 megs........Babycakes !)
To see what you are up against, zero in on ~ pg's -48-52.
73's de Edd
[email protected] ...........(Interstellar~~~~Warp~~~~Speed)
[email protected].........(Firewalled*Spam*Cookies*Crumbs)
And just when you think you've absolutely won the rat race..... along come faster rats.
.
Well...well...well, welcome to the new world of BIGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG BUX....looks like you are into as much moonlighting activity as I just normally get corralled into by scientific-eng-tech-business-associates...... along with my countless relatives, neighbors, etc.
And the first question in order would be the time of use that unit has received. A major cost of the unit is that special high intensity lamp it uses. Probably in the order of a min of ~$260 on UPWARDS, computing/depending on the proper "gouge factor".(NO..its not $31 your wholesale cost and a 800% markup).
If it has had a hard failure...looking at the small centered glass "stick" and its end electrode centered within the inner lamp parabola..it can take out the starter/ ballast / regulator electronics with it with NO activity after that. In the aforementioned situation the center glass support stick breaks and falls loose and you can visually see that or hear it rattle when being handled.
Those lamps typically fall out of the warranty period, classified as expendibles, unless you warrant them separately. I Saw one go out in less than a year, usually 2000hrs is in order or I have seen failure in 1000 hrs.
That being particularly so, if one is not using the subdued lamp saver mode or woe be the person that uses that set as a "baby sitter" or merely for background music like a "radio".
Soooooo if you are ready to take out a funding loan..... against your ultra-light, I can say that the two items that I have already mentioned could set you back in the order of half a kilobuck. To do an initial analysisof the unit , requires a lap-top and a service program CD and then after some degree of study you can plug in and query its BITE (Built in test equipment) to get the most common service menu failure modes...e.g.:
0 : Normal,
1 : Temp High,
2 : Fan Error,
4 : Lamp Cover Open,
8 : Lamp Life 5% or less,
16 : Lamp Burnt-out,
32 : Lamp Ignition Failure,
64 : Temp Abnormally High
Thus, being able to somewhat zero in on your initial analysis. Then its BUY, plug in and play time.(Eventually praying for the best) Which is basically what the big box/store electronics merchandisers do, owing to the complexity of the present state of this technology...versus the technical expertise level of support personnel...woefully abject.
One thing that you might abort to, in an analysis, is the resetting of the lamp timeout feature with the remote, and give the unit a try.....basically the bad end result is the eventual failure of the lamp with the knocking out of the additional support electronics that I had mentioned earlier. (Ref following svc data)
If all works out , then figure on getting and replacement with a new lamp and a system u/p reseting of the timer for an operational system again.
Basically what you would be doing then is inquiring of the owner...considering that he cannot be EXACTING on the systems precise time of use....about a new lamp replacement now , if the old one will fire up again. Seems like if he is going to keep the system in the future , lamp replacements are in the future for sure , he's just getting an early start on his impending financial drudge.
My worst case scenario is having been referred to a client...(ask Edd, he can fix anything?..now really ??? much in the vein ...a.. la "Try Mikey, he'll eat ANYTHING !..commercial ) who had bought a manse...circa 14.2 mil...that formerly belonged to a Enron type of shady character.
That manse, very initially, was the additions SHOWCASE model home with all ...rpt...ALL the bells and whistles. A cluster of 12 monitors on the security system as well as their RF remoting to any TV receiver. Multi access of Stereo/FM/AM/CD/DVD in all rooms. The home theater room with all its equipment was using a 100 in screen for its projection system.
An evaluation of the unit revealed a slight lightning hit...no meltee..meltee, just, no workee..workee. and the previous owner fixed nothing….. OR..... pocketed the insurance money . Plus, my new person knew nothing until my evaluation. I ended up using about a month of my spare time getting a $5k Dennon video/audio control system working again by laboriously hand mapping its circuitry.. since schemas were $60 plus additional $40 for microfiche.
I got that systems 6 chan x 100 watts audio going again with its 4 video channels + SVHS video switching capabilities.
On the systems large projo unit, I was only able to get just the ballast regulator/ SMPS up and working again on the Telex $12,000 media projector. There it sits , gifted to me after I eventually had to suggest the purchase and use of the same brand and model of media projo we successfully use at the collegiate site.
I see that we used to have that Sharp at one collegiate site and can give you some info on it via the separate referencing, or I have also composed in Adobe for E-mail, in the interim why not just ref to:
http://www.oconee.k12.sc.us/it/techweb/10_20_E.PDF
(6.2 megs........Babycakes !)
To see what you are up against, zero in on ~ pg's -48-52.
73's de Edd
[email protected] ...........(Interstellar~~~~Warp~~~~Speed)
[email protected].........(Firewalled*Spam*Cookies*Crumbs)
And just when you think you've absolutely won the rat race..... along come faster rats.
.
-
Janitor Tzap
- Posts: 1707
- Joined: Sat Aug 12, 2006 5:17 pm
- Contact:
Do you know the part number?dacflyer wrote:ok, i finally found out, it is the lamp,,apon very very close inspection, i discovered the lamp is cracked...
Phuuuuu $260.00 for a new lamp....sheesh !
well thanks again all...especially Edd for the manual...
MAT-Electronics has a "LTI Sharp AN-B10LP" for $219.95.
It still isn't cheap.
But it could be worse.
This could be an RCA or LG DLP projector television set.
And those bulbs run about $325 to $600!!!:)
It's to bad they don't design these things so you just replace the bulb.
Instead of replacing the whole housing as well.
Signed: Janitor Tzap
-
Chris Smith
- Posts: 4325
- Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2001 1:01 am
- Location: Bieber Ca.
If the whole housing was being replaced, that would lend it self to the perfect example of modifying it with a simple replacement bulb, say of the Mercury vapor or the halogen types.
Rather than spend so many bucks, I would use the broken unit to experiment with?
Also there are a lot of scientific type of bulbs that are a little more expensive, but they come in all sorts of sizes and shapes.
Rather than spend so many bucks, I would use the broken unit to experiment with?
Also there are a lot of scientific type of bulbs that are a little more expensive, but they come in all sorts of sizes and shapes.
-
Chris Smith
- Posts: 4325
- Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2001 1:01 am
- Location: Bieber Ca.
Xenon may be the brightest there is, and it may be able to be replaced by some very close substitute, but try some of the lesser bright bulbs like the Mercury vapor and the Halide types in the general location.
The unit may work just fine while a little less bright for distance.
If the module has plenty of room to work with, why not try?
You will only damage the module and its already toast.
The unit may work just fine while a little less bright for distance.
If the module has plenty of room to work with, why not try?
You will only damage the module and its already toast.
I would tread very lightly here. The power supply and heat monitoring system are tuned very tightly. You could risk more than just the experimental bulb...If the whole housing was being replaced, that would lend it self to the perfect example of modifying it with a simple replacement bulb, say of the Mercury vapor or the halogen types.
-
Chris Smith
- Posts: 4325
- Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2001 1:01 am
- Location: Bieber Ca.
The power supply would be ignored as it is incompatible, while the heat factor is about the same. Xenon bulbs produce gobs of heat, while the other bulbs being a little smaller should produce about the same or less heat.
As long as the cooling system is working, again it’s a module, not the case that is at risk.
Always monitor the situation.
I have placed a 150 watt halogen bulb into a 4 D cell Maglite flashlight complete with a focusing lens, Infra Red lens, and cooling unit keeping things cool, to throw a IR spot beam more than a mile, so anything is possible with the right engineering.
As long as the cooling system is working, again it’s a module, not the case that is at risk.
Always monitor the situation.
I have placed a 150 watt halogen bulb into a 4 D cell Maglite flashlight complete with a focusing lens, Infra Red lens, and cooling unit keeping things cool, to throw a IR spot beam more than a mile, so anything is possible with the right engineering.
-
Janitor Tzap
- Posts: 1707
- Joined: Sat Aug 12, 2006 5:17 pm
- Contact:
Hmm......
Well someone is missing a golden opportunity.
These DLP Televisions......
If you could find the suppliers of the parts for the Lamp Modules.
You could make quite a killing on replacement Lamp Modules.
Example:
For awhile I was rebuilding HP laser printers.
In the fuser, they used a Halogen Lamp to heat the Roller Drum.
These would some times burn out, or someone dropped the printer shattering the bulb.
My HP Parts supplier only sold the complete Fuser unit, and not just the bulb.
{The Fuser unit cost me $75}
And from what I saw of these units.
They were simply rebuilt units, replaced Roller Drum, Lamp, and maybe even some of the Lamp Holder Connectors.
Later I found a place that had the lamps, and another that had the Roller Drums.
Thus, I was able too rebuild the fusers myself.
But, I had too buy the parts in groups of at least twelve.
I got out of repairing the HP printers because the prices on the new printers had drop below $500.
Plus, the newer printers had more features.
That and the cost of parts and my labor, wound run close to the cost of a new printer.
Signed: Janitor Tzap
Well someone is missing a golden opportunity.
These DLP Televisions......
If you could find the suppliers of the parts for the Lamp Modules.
You could make quite a killing on replacement Lamp Modules.
Example:
For awhile I was rebuilding HP laser printers.
In the fuser, they used a Halogen Lamp to heat the Roller Drum.
These would some times burn out, or someone dropped the printer shattering the bulb.
My HP Parts supplier only sold the complete Fuser unit, and not just the bulb.
{The Fuser unit cost me $75}
And from what I saw of these units.
They were simply rebuilt units, replaced Roller Drum, Lamp, and maybe even some of the Lamp Holder Connectors.
Later I found a place that had the lamps, and another that had the Roller Drums.
Thus, I was able too rebuild the fusers myself.
But, I had too buy the parts in groups of at least twelve.
I got out of repairing the HP printers because the prices on the new printers had drop below $500.
Plus, the newer printers had more features.
That and the cost of parts and my labor, wound run close to the cost of a new printer.
Signed: Janitor Tzap
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