looking for IC adaptor board..

dacflyer · Post by **dacflyer** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 2:23 pm

hi all, i got me a sample IC in the mail today..wasn't what i hoped it to be..
i thought it was a 16 pin DIP
but it is a 16+1pin TSSOP
(16 leads, plus the pad on the bottom is ground+heatsink)

the IC is from linear.com

the ic is LT3466EFE this is a led driver that can drive up to 2 sets of 10 leds in series.. designed for white leds.

cannot use this untill i find an adapter of some sort.

heres the link incase anyone is interested, i got 2 free samples.

http://www.linear.com/pc/productDetail. ... 1061,P2455

philba · Post by **philba** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 3:31 pm

check this mouser catalog page. http://www.mouser.com/catalog/628/1825.PDF

haklesup · Post by **haklesup** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:40 am

That center pad is mostly for heat sinking, particularly in the FE package (TSSOP) you have which already has 4 ground pins. For experimentation, your cheapest solution is to glue/solder it dead bug style onto a DIP header and solder a metal strip to act as a heatsink to the center pad while also shorting that to all other ground pins.

dacflyer · Post by **dacflyer** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 5:07 pm

ya but them pins are sooooooooooo close together to be able to do that right,, i was thinking a copper strip under it to act as a heat sink,

i found some boards in older N&V mags,,i just have to order them now..
it will be cool to use this chip in some of my solar applications if this chip really does work as good as they indicate.

dacflyer · Post by **dacflyer** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 3:15 pm

Phuuuu ! these adapter boards from www.beldynsys.com they want to sell you a whole sheet of these things,, around $45.00 a sheet, i just need
2 small boards.. not a whole sheet..

so i ask, soes anyone out there have and 16 pin TSSOP to 16 pin DIP
adapter boards? will pay a fair price..
someone out there please speak up

heres what i am looking for,, look at 2nd and 3rd row coloum 1
see foto.

MrAl · Post by **MrAl** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 1:55 am

Hi there,

Those leads will be very hard to solder, with or without an
adapter board. I wish you luck there...

Newz2000 · Post by **Newz2000** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 9:09 am

Wow, that is tiny. I mocked one up in Eagle (still trying to learn this prog) and printed one out to see how hard it would be. This uses relatively wide traces so on a bread board is two rows wider than dip on one side, and three rows wider on the other. Still, that would be a bear to solder.

Here's my eagle files. I may try to etch some of these tonight if I end up working on electronics stuff, would you be interested in them? I know they look amateurish, so you won't hurt my feelings if you say no (I just won't make any.

).

Any experienced eagle people, maybe you can suggest how to make it look more professional. My big problem was that I had to set the grid to 0.325mm spacing in oder to connect to the pads on the tssop, but the headers are on a 0.1in spacing, which made some of my traces noticeably crooked. I'm not even sure if changing the grid is the correct way to make that work, but assuming it is, do you start to route your lines on one grid, then switch to the other grid spacing to finish them?

Also, dac, if you're interested in this, tell me which pin to connect to the center pad.

haklesup · Post by **haklesup** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 10:44 am

The ones from Emulation Technology with SMT pads (top of list at this link) are in the $20 range
http://www.emulation.com/catalog/off-th ... ters/soic/

They run about $80 with a ZIF test socket
http://www.emulation.com/catalog/off-th ... ndex/soic/

And larger proto boards are available also in the $40-$60 range
http://www.emulation.com/catalog/off-th ... 0smt8.html

Also Ironwood Electronics has a line of "device Converters" and I see some SOIC as low as $14
http://www.ironwoodelectronics.com/cata ... ocessID=10

Or follow the "Package Converters" Link from their home page. If you look hard enough or call, they might even have one to handle the center pad.

dacflyer · Post by **dacflyer** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 5:44 pm

thanks news2000 >> but the leads on your drawing seem to be on the wrong side of the chip..

i will look at the following site and see if i luck out any there,, thanks anyway.

Dave Dixon · Post by **Dave Dixon** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 6:06 am

Damn it! I found 1/2 of the adapter I made years ago. To KISS I made two boards, one (that I still have) was a "universal" header - just in case I needed to make some other surface mount boards to adapt. I just spent some time this morning looking thru my Eagle archives, and I can't find the files now. They are probably zipped up on a CD around here! We use Emulation Technology for stuff all of the time here, and I have never had a complaint about their service or products. High quality stuff. Can't beat $20... Time and labor would be more than that - - unless of course you want to roll your own - - which is why most of us hang out around here! Sorry I can't find the other half of that adapter, I'd have sent it to you for the cost of shipping. As the one-eyed hooker said to her John in the old joke... "I'll keep an eye out for you!" Best of luck, Dave

dacflyer · Post by **dacflyer** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 8:54 pm

thanks anyway

Michael J · Post by **Michael J** » Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:36 am

Soldering Tip -
When you finally get a PCB, tack 2 diagonal corners of the chip down.
Then from the opposite corners QUICKLY run a fine blob down the
entire side of the chip both sides. Use 0.9mm solder or finer.

Then using De-Solder Wick, quickly suck up the excess solder.
The surface tension should remove all but a small amount of solder
under each leg of the chip.

If the PCB is solder masked all the better.
I have used this technique on chips with 1.2mm and 0.8mm pin spacings
not sure if will work down to .63mm pin spacings. 2.4mm is DIL spacing.

You only usually get one shot at it, so take your time.
Once soldered you will probably never get the chip off without destroying
either the chip or PCB, that is unless you have a hot air blower and SMD
removat tools.

For a heat sink during soldering, grind or file down a small brass or
steel nut and sit it on top of the chip once the corners are tacked down.
(use a small amount heatsink compound on the nut, this can be often
be more trouble than it is worth - having the nut in the way)

Also a cheap crappy pair of reading glasses from the $2 / Bargain shop
are great for SMD work, 2.75 or 3.00 magnification work well.

Dave Dixon · Post by **Dave Dixon** » Fri Jan 26, 2007 5:53 am

Michael, FYI... For surface mount IC removal, I often use - coincidently- another product from Emulation Technology called Quick-Chip. It is a super low temperature metal alloy that combines with the existing solder to keep the melting point extremely low for an extended period of time. Be sure to clean it all off when finished though as you probably don't want your IC's to start falling off the PCB when summer comes around!!! It isn't cheap, but a little bit goes a long way. I actually reuse the stuff. Don't bother buying the more expensive "kit" they offer, unless you don't know where to find your own flux and solderwick! HAPPY FRIDAY! Dave

dacflyer · Post by **dacflyer** » Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:32 pm

ya, i have done the same technique for solidering chips..especially the small square 100 pin types. that are used in tv/vcrs.. phuuu

dacflyer · Post by **dacflyer** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 8:16 am

haklesup>>

i looked and called ironwood electronics, they had to look, but they quoted me 22 dollars each for one of them boards..WOW
them things mst be made to order or somethinig and made of gold

i need to search more.. $44.00 for 2 boards is insane . if i cannot find something else soon, i might have to abandon this project

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looking for IC adaptor board..

looking for IC adaptor board..

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