Hi:
I disconnected my OEM window antenna (the window antenna is in the defroster grid). I installed a rubber mast fender mounted antenna instead.
I had to splice an extra 5 feet of antenna cable into the original antenna cable in order to reach the radio. My reception is bad now, lots of static. It's not an alternator-type whine, just annoying static and poor reception.
Any ideas why?<p>Thanks
Ryan
car radio help
Re: car radio help
If I'm right (so probably not 
) then a car can create sounds in radio. I think your local ratshack sells a device to filter it out.
) then a car can create sounds in radio. I think your local ratshack sells a device to filter it out.Re: car radio help
Bad connection? Wrong antenna/cable impedance. Poor ground connection at the antenna mounting? Break in the sheilding? What do you mean by rubber mast?
Re: car radio help
It's not a bad gnd because I tried to hook the base of the antenna right to body gnd with a wire and it was still bad.The rubber mast is just like a regular antenna.When you say sheilding what it that is that the whole outside of the antenna cable or the inside part usally white where a little small wire is at?? because I just cut the that cable and just hooked it together soldered shoudl that white part inside tha cable not be touching together??<p>
Thanks
Thanks
Re: car radio help
Sir Ryan:
And that will be on AM….right. On the AM band that interconnect between the antenna proper and the radio is a special low interelectrode capacitance type of cable , if you cut it and inspected it, you will see it to be a floating wire inside a thin wall poly insulative sleeve with the whole being enclosed within the exterior braided ground shield, with its overall vinyl covering. The best thing for you to initially HAVE done, would be to have used an ant extension cable with its mating male and female ends. They are typically available in ½,1,3,5,10 ft lengths [for rear antenna(s) ]. If you have already lost/clipped your male connector, any further success would be in achieving a good continuous shielding of that repair area, considering that you were using the identical type of shielded cable for the extended area. Not the using of conventional coax with its fixed center conductor molded within its encircling poly insulation and then the overall shield.
Whichever route you take you will have added additional capacitance to the RF input section of the receiver and that will detune the series resonant input circuitry of the radio, thus dampening your sensitivity , particularly at the hi end of the band.
To optimize again to the new conditions will require a slight repeaking of either the series antenna padder capacitor or series var U inductor….according to which manner was incorporated in the front end design of your particular radio, almost exclusively the former. Fortunately, its usually located right in the proximity of the ant plug on the radio, usually a variable compression silver mica with an affixed hex nut protruding from a hole in the radio. On others, a standard slot screw recessed within a hole. Proper adjustment is having the radio tuned to a very weak station ~1500 khz and peaking the cap for strongest reception.
Feedback..... if this misses your situation.<p>73's de Edd
[email protected] .........(Interstellar~~~~Warp~~~Speed)
[email protected].........(Firewalled-Spam*Cookies*Crumbs)
:p :p<p>[ June 27, 2004: Message edited by: Edd Whatley ]</p>
And that will be on AM….right. On the AM band that interconnect between the antenna proper and the radio is a special low interelectrode capacitance type of cable , if you cut it and inspected it, you will see it to be a floating wire inside a thin wall poly insulative sleeve with the whole being enclosed within the exterior braided ground shield, with its overall vinyl covering. The best thing for you to initially HAVE done, would be to have used an ant extension cable with its mating male and female ends. They are typically available in ½,1,3,5,10 ft lengths [for rear antenna(s) ]. If you have already lost/clipped your male connector, any further success would be in achieving a good continuous shielding of that repair area, considering that you were using the identical type of shielded cable for the extended area. Not the using of conventional coax with its fixed center conductor molded within its encircling poly insulation and then the overall shield.
Whichever route you take you will have added additional capacitance to the RF input section of the receiver and that will detune the series resonant input circuitry of the radio, thus dampening your sensitivity , particularly at the hi end of the band.
To optimize again to the new conditions will require a slight repeaking of either the series antenna padder capacitor or series var U inductor….according to which manner was incorporated in the front end design of your particular radio, almost exclusively the former. Fortunately, its usually located right in the proximity of the ant plug on the radio, usually a variable compression silver mica with an affixed hex nut protruding from a hole in the radio. On others, a standard slot screw recessed within a hole. Proper adjustment is having the radio tuned to a very weak station ~1500 khz and peaking the cap for strongest reception.
Feedback..... if this misses your situation.<p>73's de Edd
[email protected] .........(Interstellar~~~~Warp~~~Speed)
[email protected].........(Firewalled-Spam*Cookies*Crumbs)
:p :p<p>[ June 27, 2004: Message edited by: Edd Whatley ]</p>Re: car radio help
Thank you Edd Whatley for you help.This would be Fm. Sorry I didn't put that.I did mess up by putting the two center wires together and now that I just put them close together it seems to work much better.And I left plastic covering on the inside wire.Also for some reason I got less static by removing the braided ground shield so I really don't have a gnd on the radio because it sounded better with it off. I'm 
<p>
Thanks again for you help<p>Ryan
<p>Thanks again for you help<p>Ryan
Re: car radio help
Ha Nope it doesn't work the best.I still have static once in awhile while I'm driving.So I guess I have a choice of static while I'm parked or while I'm driving.I could hook up the Gnd and try that again and see what I get.Any other ideas??<p>
Thanks <p>Ryan
Thanks <p>Ryan
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