Capacitor info

[paulsantangelo]

Hey All:

I'm wondering if anyone knows what these markings are on a ceramic capacitor.

SCK
084

I thought perhaps the value, but why would they use 0 for the 1st number and 4 for the number of zeros.

I remember someone telling me that sometimes the code refers to the manufacture and they would know the value.

This came out of the analog board from a Samsung monitor, manufactured (I think) the canada, because most of the board is in French and then english.

Any ideas?

Thanks
-paul

[Edd]

Vell, I am tellink you vot:
I think that you have probably just run into a quirky manufacturers coded part number. The only thing that is logical, being the S …Samsung prefix for the manufacturer and the following CK which is a common prefix amongst manufacturers of being a disc ceramic family derivation.
As for the 084, that is no way compatible with being a shortened code date designation.
Year 1908 is definitely incompatible, and we are still waiting in line for 2008 and there are not 84 months in a year.
What I really think is its being the short individual suffix of a manufacturers assigned parts numbering system.
E.G. if a part had a full manual designated 5910-455-084 numbering in their parts scheme, the only small real estate footprint actually required as being marked on the component ( usually small) would be 084. The rest would be understood by those in the know.
Soooo…I guess its time to lift one lead and run in the ‘ole LCR meter. My bet is probably for it to be a .1 ufd , followed by .01 or rarely .001 (unless its HF RF bypassing related).

73's de Edd
[email protected] .........(Interstellar~~~~Warp~~~Speed)
[email protected].........(Firewalled*Spam*Cookies*Crumbs)


A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking.
:p

<small>[ November 15, 2005, 06:43 PM: Message edited by: Edd Whatley ]</small>

[paulsantangelo]

Thanks for the rely back, I agree, you were astute to think of S for samsung, I completely missed it.

Unfortuatly there is a big hole in the capacitor, so I don't think I can get any kind of reading. I have come accross some site with schmatics. I have to try my luck!

-paul

[Externet]

Hello Paul.
What makes you think it is a capacitor? Is there any silkscreening marks showing C... ?
SCK is Schrack North America/Siemens-Canada.
By guess, it can be a PTC positive coheficient thermistor, resettable fuse, or alike, unless you confirm otherwise.
Its numbering SCK084 must show up on a search for electronic components dealer.
Probably can be replaced by a similar component canibalized from a similar device if you draw the schematic and see what it does. Or by a piece of wire if everything fails.
Miguel

[dyarker]

A burn hole, or a sawed slot?

[paulsantangelo]

On the lower section of the disk, from one leg to a quarter, a piece is missing with a gaping hole in the mid of that missing piece.

[paulsantangelo]

Hey Miguel:

Guess you were right, I checked out the specs and they are right on. Now all I have to do is source it.

Thanks
-paul

[Externet]

Hi Paul.
Do not go that fast... if that varistor, transient suppressor or whatever it is, is in parallel to the mains line, fine, but if in series, you need to fix the cause that destroyed it before the replacement lets the smoke go again.
If in parallel, the monitor should work fine without it if that is the only damaged part in the circuitry.
Miguel

[paulsantangelo]

Yeah, Its hard to say where the damage lies. The monitor was only moved, and then started blowing fuses. We replaced with a slow blow and thats when the terministor blew. Its hard to say whether the thermistor had an issue or is a caulity.

I will be doing a little more investigating!

[Edd]

It certainly is disadvantageous on identifying something when we are typically blindfolded!
Several other thoughts came in from others, like Dale, who was zeroing in on a spark gap cap.
I was rethinking towards a PTC degaussing thermistor after Miguel came up with that thermistor thought train.
As far as a disc ceramic, after you mentioned a segment missing, its HARD to even damage one of those with less than a pair of dikes crunching their ceramic center infrastructure, and it typically cracks all the way across the unit. You only experienced a
segment missing and that is the typical order of failure of a thermistor, along with common thermal cavitation of the wire/ to /device solder bond and having a lead floating free, for the other common mode of failure.

How about checking out this Microtherm Da DA sheet:
http://www.microtherm.co.uk/products/pdf/dtp-518.pdf

In comparison to the typical monitor power supply, I would typically expect to see the use of these devices on heftier power supplies like:
http://www.slotnotes.net/williams_power_supply.htm

A SCK 104….10 ohm unit is shown being used on one of these heftier supplies (you need to scroll on down). Note its placement on the PCB just past the clip in fuse holder.

See if you really have a series installed, line current in-rush limiter/thermistor for your unk device. You didn’t mention if the unit was black /or/ green hi temp dip encapsulated, as is the unit depicted.
Also the prior cryptic 084 does correlate to 8 ohms initial cold resistance at a later operating maximum current passage capacity of 4 amps with a potential quick drop to ~.206 ohms after the devices initial warm up. Finally a reversion back to the 8 ohms after the power is turned off after ~65 seconds cool down time.
Now, BTW what value of fuse did you blow?


73's de Edd
[email protected] .........(Interstellar~~~~Warp~~~Speed)
[email protected].........(Firewalled*Spam*Cookies*Crumbs)


I saw a bum on the freeway with a sign that said, "If you were homeless, You'd be home by now."


<small>[ November 18, 2005, 01:18 AM: Message edited by: Edd Whatley ]</small>

[paulsantangelo]

Hi there:

The Thermister is green, the value of two fuses that blew where 5A 125V Quick blow and 5A 240V slow blow.

I'll looking at the board more closely this weekend and then I'll be able to see if its in parallel with the fuse, there is another rectagleious thermister near it with the markings of
4R5QS
03K1

I will be checking this as well.

Thanks

[paulsantangelo]

Hi there:

Got a chance to look at the links, I had already found the PDF and decided thats the part. The picture in the second link, is pretty close to the part, only the missing part is by the leg and a little further in.

Are we thinking that this part went bad or that because we used a slow blow fuse, it popped?

I've examine the board pretty closely, I guess the next think to do is valueing out some of these componets!

-thanks!