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I use it to light up paperwork, and sometimes this side of the room... but I noticed it is only rated at 40 watts <p>
Well I've got a 100w bulb in there, when the lamp is right side up, I run the dimmer switch down usually, it's probably running at what 40 50 watts - but when I want this side of the room lit I crank the thing up to the full 100 watts but usually turn it upside down so it's not in my face <p>
I figure that way all of the heat can escape since the bulb faces the ceiling and it should be ok over its rated maximum - is this correct?<p>
PS: This has nothing to do with my other question

Apparently not. The rating of the lamp has to do with heat dissipation as I think you know. Your bulbs are burning out because they are over heating. Facing it up might help a little...but clearly not enough to dissipate 200 - 250% of its rated power. I'm pretty sure the warning lable says its a fire hazard to exceed the rating. <p>For the price of a handfull of lightbulbs you can get a higher rated lamp. Be careful.

In a similar vain I have a light in my kitchen that sometimes fuses the lighting circuit and sometimes doesnt the bulb though never blows? the only remedy Ive found is not to use the light (not very practical cooking in the dark tho)<p>B)

Keep in mind that bulbs that seem to burn out early, or troublesome lamps, can be a fire hazard.
An electrician would know.
At least keep good batteries in your smoke detectors!

Also at least 75% of their being sure to imply that safety margin is to CTA’s in case of fire. Check that lamps socket and it will in all probability be, not even what I would call a bakelite type of socket, but more in the order of a thermoset plied/ plasticized cardboard type of insulation used in the socket shells insulative components construction. This has a higher than norm tendency to be dried out by higher than norm heating from the lamp (or especially a larger/hotter running one) with carbonizing and micro crazing and a final breakdown and arcover.
I have two flexi gooseneck lamps over the bench and another as a bed reading lamp, but I have porcelain sockets in all three lamps replacing their initially cheaper sockets.(Thrift store finds,three porcelain sockets in a ceiling mount fixture w/o glass globe…67cents.)
All of the metal shields of the lamps housings have adequate slots/vents in their tops…assuring flow thru convection cooling. I have had 75w in the BR and 100’s in the bench lamps for at least a decade,….the time when I installed them.
If your lamps electronic dimmer is in the socket, that would be a bit more taxing on its electronics components under higher operating temps than if it were base mounted. Also it could even be intermitting on you at high temps.<p>73's de Edd
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The desk lamp never burns out
Except once when it was sitting on a home stereo speaker and I got out of control with the bass in that song cocomo by the beach boys <p>
Now that you mention it, the socket does look like some sort of "fake porcelin"<p>
But the dimmer switch is in the base..
I never leave it on unattended and I never smell anything heating up,,,<p> I was hoping it'd be ok but I'd hate to turn it off, leave and come back to a melted lamp/ burned house <p>Maybe I should run it lower for now!

Problems may not arise if socket is kept cool. But drawing 100 watts of power through that dimmer switch is a concern. How warm does the dimmer feal if left on for 20 minutes?

YES, pointing it up gets rid of the heat much faster, possibly fast enough? <p>NO, its stupid, fire is the other option here.

want brighter light... get a compaq flourescent light bulb...they give more light while using less power.... not dimmable tho...200 watt lamp only uses 36watts of power.. or less...

Mr Bwtz Your blowing the circuit since it is overloaded. This is common in Kitchens where a toaster and other items are being used all at the same time, eventually the total load is higher than the fuse or breaker is for.
The mystery item is probably the refrigerator. Off now but kicks on- the load is more and there goes the fuse. Either that or you use something else sometimes. Doesn't even need to be kitchen only, just the same circuit.
The cure is to add a circuit. Or keep the load below the circuits rating. Don't use one of the items normaly used when it happens.

99% of houses have the overhead lights on a dedicated circuit...rarely ever mixed with any outletts , so i have to disagree on that last comment...but if its a lamp plugged into a outlett then maybe...
just replace the lamp...its evil...thats why you cannot keep bulbs in it...
another thing,,, 99% of all house bulbs except for specialised bulbs... most all have no filament supports.. only the leads that supply power to the filament..
where i work at..the traffic signal bulbs have 6 filament holders plus a heavy duty filament,,these bulbs give off more heat than light...but also last 8,000hrs+ but still, i bet if you install you one of them screw in compaq flourescent lamps,,you will be quite suprised..
good luck...<p>
not only are leds lighting the future...so are compaq flourescents !

"99% of houses have the overhead lights on a dedicated circuit...rarely ever mixed with any outletts "<p>Speaking as an Electrician, most houses I have come accross have the lights and receptacles on the same circuit, often between adjoining rooms.
$$ is the name of the game in new construction so an additional homerun costs more and older homes did not have the luxury of panel space for that many circuits. As a matter of fact my bathroom lights dim when the microwave runs in the kitchen, no surprise my house was built in the 50's, one day I'll find time to add another circuit to the kitchen (or just read in the dark LOL).<p>Rich

Hmmmm here the houses are having lights on a seperate circuit... all lights in the house are mostly on one breaker... might be different in other states..and maybe really older houses..

I replaced all of my kitchen can light bulbs.. they were 70 watts before.. I put in the can light style flourescent bulbs that are 23 watts, puts out close to a 100 watt light and much much whiter light.. no heat, so now they don't turn off with the temp sensor like they used to, and I get more lighting from these bulbs..