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anyone have or know where to obtain the schematic for a whitfield pellet stove control card?.. seems when these things quit, they are quite expensive and I don't see anything on the board that looks to be over a $1 item.. its a whitfield advantage II older unit.. thanks.. wayne

$230 for a new one on a Google site. Ouch! I wish I were selling the repair end of that product! It doesn't sound all that complex a board. Check the diodes, other semi's- are there any IC's on the board?
John

bet someone here can fix it..
what is a pellet stove anyway?

your right.. they are very expensive and I'm sure cost barely nothing to repair.. I'll draw the schematic from the board if I have to,, just hoped someone had a schematic avail... its not a very big board, so it won't be that difficult..

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by dacflyer:
what is a pellet stove anyway?<hr></blockquote><p>I guess this???<p>http://www.harmanstoves.com/images/p68_1.jpg<p>Don't see where electronics come into it though...

Whitfield pellet stove this is a pellet stove like the one I need to repair... the electronics come into play by taking the signal from the heat sensor to control the auger for the pellets to drop into the burn pit, the electronics control the fans, both the burn fan and the exhaust fan..., the electronics control the speed at which the pellets drop and the burn fan runs in order to adjust the BTU of the stove.. it also has a sensor to turn the stove off if either of the fans get plugged, using a vacuum switch... plus a few other little things that it does..
by pressing the start button, adjusting the speed of the pellet drop (1 through 5, 5 being the hottest, and normal start up is at 3), placing a couple of pellets in the burn pit along with some lighter chips (wax coated shavings), the fan will come on making the chips burn hot enough to ignite the pellets and by then the auger is dropping them into the pit.. and wa-la.. the heat fromt the fire goes up and heats the pipes that have the exhaust fan blowing through them, that blows HOT air into the room.. at any rate, my exhaust fan quit, because of something on that board (tested the fan direct hookup and its fine).. I have to rebuild the tranny on the auger motor, probably just needs some good hi-temp grease.. and if I can repair the board, then I'll use this stove in my garage... at $2200 a pop, I just can't see tossing it in the scrap metal bin..

OOOOOHHHHH...very nice...very nice

Edd.. your right, its an expensive garage heater, but... the garage is 44X36 and being a shop too.. its ok. The stove was bought new, its the second one I've had, now I'm on the third.. never had a moments problem with the first, and hope not to have a problem with this last one.. its a lot different than the first two.. I try to use nothing but the best grade of pellets, although I have been know to toss p-nut shells and such in the hopper to burn along with the pellets.. Lignetics and GoldenFire are two of the best, in case anyone has a need to know.. I suppose rabbit and deer pellets (smart pills as my dad always called them) would burn ok.. who knows?.. might be a new heat source?.. ha... the manuals I have do not have any schematics included, I'll look over these links you've supplied tho, and I appreciate your looking into this for me.. thanks wayne

I know someone out there has had experience rebuilding one of these boards.. come on, who are you?.... with the vast amount of knowledge I've witnessed in this group, I know your there..

FAAAAAAAAATTT chance of very many people even having that unit , much less troubleshooting its control elements down to the component level failure.<p>Did you even look within the references I supplied ?
And you are savvy now on the common mechanics involved in auger malfunction that the one other person found on his unit on another URL ?<p>Looking at this insert within a supplied URL for info: <p>http://www.lennoxhearthproducts.com//as ... e-II-T.pdf<p>
These seem to be the motor specs (Page-31), but only you know which one of the three Advantage
series that you have.
Room Air Blower 150 CFM;1.5 Amps, 3000 rpm<p>Auger Motor 1 RPM; .55 Amps<p>Exhaust Blower 95 CFM: .95 Amps,3000 rpm<p>Did we interpret the igniter working and the auger motor powering up along with its associated COMBustion blower motor, with only the CONVection blower not coming on after the stove heated up ?<p>Considering this to be your model and looking at page 34, (after flipping it 90 deg )
note that the powers low line comes over to both blower motors thru the lo limit switch which is normally off until the initial feeble little starter fire is strong enough to tolerate the later impending draft.
If the COMBustion blower comes on, that is indicative of the capability of the lo limit switch then to be functioning and completing the line low circuitry for both blowers. The functioning of the CONVection motor is dependant on it’s wire marked “5-black” receiving its HOT line voltage from its connect wire to the PCB (There are 6connectors shown in a cluster)
I might expect them to be Euro style insulated terminal blocks with set screws.
Soooo fire up your ohmmmmeter and check for continuity from “5-black” wire at the PCB connector to the terminal of the lo limit switch on the motor side of the device.
Should that circuit be complete that would also let us know that there are no one shot thermal fuses in that loop that have opened.
That would then suggest the need for opening up the controller and inspecting that PCB , specifically at that “5-black” termination and tracking the trace and see if it doesn’t end up parked at a TO-220 encased triac that is used to switch the hot AC line thru it to the CONVection motor.
ZUJ’ing for further info from your inspection.<p>73’s de Edd
[email protected] .........(Interstellar~~~~Warp~~~Speed)
[email protected].........(Firewalled-Spam*Cookies*Crumbs)
<p>[ November 30, 2004: Message edited by: Edd Whatley ]</p>

Edd. actually, I believe everything is firing up as supposed to, except for the blower that blows the heat out to the room?.. I have moved it to the garage where I can work on it, so I'll dig into this adobe doc and check it out.. with my handy oh-meter too.. ha... its just been too cold to go out and sit on that concrete floor to work on it.. but, maybe I'll fire up the diesel salamander and warm the shop first.. thanks for all your help thus far!.. wayne

Wayne, I'm also a proud owner of a non-working Whitfield Advantage II!! My convection or room air blower quit working on mine. The week point on these older (knob) style boards seems to be either U4 or U5 microcontroller. I desoldered U4 which is for the convection blower and swiched it with U5. My problem followed. After doing that the covection blower worked and the exhaust blower quit like yours. Now the problem!! You can not get this part or at least I couldn't find one. The boards are made by the ICM Corp. out of New York. They told me this chip was a hybrid and they don't have anymore and don't make these boards anymore!! And that's about all they could tell me... So basically I could fix it if it were any other component on the board but these. I assume the 'newer' $230 push button board is more resiliant and I'm not sure who makes them. I actually found a cheaper board off a different stove I am going to try to make work. When it comes right down to it, all they do is monitor 3 temp switches and 3 motors... The rest is luxury!<p>So, if you find parts for yours let me know, I sure couldn't. The part number for my control board is W1801-2
What's yours?<p>Wayne, after re-reading your post, I see its your room blower also that doesn't work. My mistake, I thought it was the other blower. Most likely U5 on the board... I would check the cap C1 and relay K1 though. As they are readily available anywhere...<p>[ December 02, 2004: Message edited by: scudball ]</p>

Thanks Pat.. got your email...

scudball, what is the part number on the chip?

I am scudball by the way... Had to create a new login...<p>Philba, No numbers on these chips. I've even called the original maker. They told these were some sort of 'hybrid' chip. They said they don't even have schematics or anything. I think it has some sort of high current SCR in it. Who knows... I ended up retrofitting a board from a different Pellet stove all together.