T&L Publications

Hanns.G Model JW199D

Several years ago I wanted a computer in my shop, so I built a protective cabinet.
This Hanns.G monitor worked flawlessly, until the SMPS started to fail. It's an
internal power supply, not an external brick.

I realize monitors are not very expensive. If the cost is reasonable, I'd like to
repair this Hanns.G monitor.

I removed all the screws from the back cover. I assume there are tabs or clips
keeping the back cover firmly attached. I've got a collection of plastic prying
tools. I cannot pry off the back cover. If I apply too much force, the monitor will
be destroyed.

I'm very familiar with "hidden" screws, found under labels and other inconspicuous
places. There are no hidden screws.

How can I remove the back cover without damaging the plastic frame?

Reminds me of an adapter I was wanting to open up. I don't think it applies to your monitor, but the two pieces of the plastic case were actually glued together. I used a hacksaw to cut around the whole joint perimeter.

There might be some tabs on one face of the case that latch into the other side of the case. If so, sometimes pressure applied to one side of the case can bow it enough to allow the sides to unlatch from each other with the addition of separating force. It can be kind of a Hudini maneuver.

Here's a repair video I found.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ERCMe13i7Y


Signed: Janitor Tzap

I've used the prying method with other brands. Always worked. The back cover on this
Hanns.G monitor didn't need screws! It's not glued or heat welded, but something is
keeping it frozen in place.

Joseph, I remember reading an article about another brand (not Hanns.G) that required
pressure to open the frame. I've searched for exploded diagrams or a service manual for
model JW199D. Can't find anything.

There are several repair videos about monitors. After removing the screws, the prying
method is usually recommended because it works with several brands.

Here's a tip that may help
First you need to determine if the cover is mechanically fastened or glued/welded which is not likely.
If the cabinet has grooves around the edge try using a drop or two of common alcohol on the joint to see if it sucks in or runs off. Where it sucks in is the split line on the cabinet, so concentrate your efforts there.

I use this practice to find small vacuum leaks in medical equipment. The alcohol plugs the leak for a moment but the vacuum gauge jumps up.
All the tests. I've done like this and, using alcohol to clean plastics, it is the most harmless chemical and has never affected plastic.
Not sure? Just try some on the back to see what happens.
BTW: Looking for a vacuum leak in a gasoline fueled engine? Use starter fluid sprayed on the hose ends, The engine will speed up when the fluid is sucked in!
Hope it helps...

I wonder if you could scan it with a Walabot to see any hidden metal components
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y29NXKK/?c ... _lig_dp_it

its probably plastic clips and unless you know where they are, its hard to know where or how to insert a release tool, try probing with a thin metal spatula to find the clipping points. Plastic cases often require multiple release tools to unspring all the clips at the same time.

When you get inside, its probably the electrolytic caps and the MOV, maybe the input diodes got damaged if it got too much current. If the controller chip is bad, then try to replace the whole PS based on output specs.

Worse comes to worse, a Dremel tool can slit the whole edge and you can glue it back later.