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I have two sets of these Logitech H150 Headphones/Mic with mute/Stereo Vol control.

Originally the foam Ear Pads for the speakers wore out.
So, I replaced them with softer and larger Ear Pads.
But now I've got issues with the wires.
They either make or break connections, and cause the stereo L & R separation to become Monaural Stereo.

I also have a more expensive Logitech Headset /Mic with mute/Stereo Vol control.

It too has the problem of shorting and becoming Monaural Stereo.

As you can see, they have the wire coming out the one side of the headset.
Now where can I find replacement wire for these?


Signed Janitor Tzap

Cheap assembly of audio cables or just cheap wire I have seen many many times. Unless these headphones are special to you, I suggest you change to something wireless this Christmas.

As for replacement, look for 3 conductor, 28 gauge with shield though the original may have been thinner, you can upgrade to #24

https://www.amazon.com/CBAZYTM-Control- ... r=8-8&th=1

maybe its 2 conductor with shield, anyway, you can figure it out by cutting into it.

For me, I would probably buy a good stereo patch cord (1/8th ")with the connector preassembled at both ends and cut one end off, save me assembling one end at least. this may end up being cheaper because you buy less wire in bulk

https://www.amazon.com/Oldboytech-Auxil ... 483&sr=8-3

UPDATE:

The Logitech H150 Headphones/Mic with mute/Stereo Vol control.
Out of the 2, I was able to make one good set by cannibalizing the worst of the two.

I also repaired an old Radio Shack Headset/Mic Headphones, by spicing some broken wires back together.
So, I've now got a spare.

I haven't done anything with the more expensive Logitech Headset /Mic / mute/Stereo Vol control, yet.
Working with the small wires is a pain, it is too easy to damage them.

Edit:

The more expensive Logitech Headset /Mic / mute/Stereo Vol control has been repaired.
I found that the wire between the mute/Stereo Vol control and the Headset / Mic, had a break right in the middle of it.
I still had wire left over from cannibalizing the one Logitech H150 Headphones/Mic with mute/Stereo Vol control.
Thus, I used that to replace the bad wire.

I still would like to find a few feet of the Armored Cabling that most of the newer Gaming Headsets for XBox's,
and other gaming platforms are using.


Signed: Janitor Tzap

UPDATE:
Okay.....

I'm still on the hunt for replacement wire for computer headsets.
Here's a picture of what I'm looking for. Microphone wires
RED Stranded wire and wrapped with Gold Stranded wire.

Headphone Speakers
Blue Gold Stranded wire; Negative -.
Green Stranded wire; Left Positive +.
Red Blue Stranded wire; Right Positive +

Two White Strings for strength.

Black outer casing.

I'd like to get about 100ft spool of it.


Signed: Janitor Tzap

Would Ethernet cable work? Maybe too rigid?

most all Ethernet cable is solid conductors.. That wouldn't last long at all...

CAT-5 or CAT-6 patch cords are of stranded wire.

dyarker wrote: ↑Sat Apr 10, 2021 9:54 pm CAT-5 or CAT-6 patch cords are of stranded wire.

Yeah, I've got some CAT-5 and CAT-6 in my wire pile.
But, it is 8 wire cable, and the outer casing diameter is too wide.


Signed: Janitor Tzap

are there any markings on that wire?

Much of that construction is for flexibility and shielding, probably any cable with the right number of conductors could be substituted with some mechanical compromise. USB C cables probably have a compatible combination of conductors and flexibility, some USB mini might also work but wire size is more variable in those. Those string core wires are very hard to assemble with solder, you need low wattage and thin solder. I've only ever made a mess with headphone cord

Hmmm..........
Really having no luck, in finding just the cable wire.

Edit:

are there any markings on that wire?

Nope, nothing.

But, I came across some computer gaming headphone sets that are using 3.5mm TRRS type plugs & jacks.
So, I wonder if I can make use of these type of cables, too replace the old wiring.
Like.........

3.5mm TRRS type Female Jack.
That will be mounted in to the headset, or if there is no room.
Put the Jack on a cable, just outside the headset.

3ft long 3.5mm TRRS type Male plugs, on each end of the cable.
Plug this cable in to the two jacks, one at the headset, and then to the Y-Splitter Adapter.

3.5mm TRRS type Female Jack, with 3.5mm TRS Stereo & Mic Y-Splitter Adapter.
Which is plugged in to the computer jacks.

Thus, If the 3ft cable gets a break in it.
It is easy enough to just get another cable, or replace the Y-Splitter Adapter if it develops a break in it.

The thing is.....
The 3.5mm TRRS Plugs & Jacks use 4 wires in stead of 5.
The single Gnd wire is shared by the Headphones & the Microphone.

This could be a problem, if they're two separate GND's.
One for the Microphone, and one for Headphones.


Signed: Janitor Tzap

I believe what you're looking for is "Litz wire" Here's one source.... https://www.surplussales.com/Wire-Cable/LitzWire.html

gerty wrote: ↑Wed May 26, 2021 12:00 am I believe what you're looking for is "Litz wire" Here's one source.... https://www.surplussales.com/Wire-Cable/LitzWire.html

Thanks for the info.

I have sent them an E-mail, with a picture attached of what I have.
Now just waiting for a reply.

peterr991 wrote: ↑Tue May 25, 2021 12:58 pm isn’t it easier to just buy other headphones for a few dollars?

You can get a cheap Gaming Headset for about $20.
But, they are heavy, and bulky.
Thus, after a half hour or so of wearing them.
I would have to remove them, because they would be pinching my ears and squeezing the temples on the sides my head.
This isn't a problem with the H150 Logitech Headset.
They originally cost about $40, but are very comfortable.
So, spending, maybe $10 for wire is worth the effort.


Signed: Janitor Tzap

Additional:

Just want too give you guys a bit of a warning about these Blue & Black Armored Wires,
that have been in Dollar Stores, or on the racks near the register check outs.

I had a gaming headset from a friend come in, that uses this same armored wire cabling.

He complained that the microphone stopped working.
After doing some testing......
I found that the area of cable, right before it went into the Left Head Phone Cap.
When you bent it a little, caused the microphone to start working again.
Thinking that this must be a break in the wire.
I went ahead and pulled a part the Left Head Phone Cap.
De-soldered the wires, and stripped the outer casing off the cable, back to before the break in the wire.
Well, to my surprise the microphone wire wasn't broken.
But the insulation had been worn through, and was touching the ground wire, shorting it out.
I looked at the other wires, and found the insulation on them was frayed or was worn through at the same spot as well.
I then looked at the wire strain relief.
Ahah!
Whomever did the assembly, used a pliers to get the strain relief on.
And they pinched the cable so hard in that spot, it damaged the insulation.
So, much for being an armored cable.
Also, there was no white strings in the cable to give it some strength.


Signed: Janitor Tzap