T&L Publications

Hi.
Today, my TV refused to turn on with the remote. Checked/replaced its AAAs; nothing. Confirmed operation with button controls. Works. Confirmed the remote and a second remote emitting OK with a camera.

Dismantled it, marked the test points to test voltages/signals, and found it is built to not be serviceable. To probe anything, it has to be assembled and all board connectors plugged in which means back cover in place. Its only PC board is mounted inside the back cover. Back to start.

Well, thinking of buying my next TV, plugged back... and it works fine. Now no justification for a new TV .
Anyway, somehow, Murphy strikes again.

Ahh. Forum dropped my post TWICE. As ALWAYS. When the prompt to re-login is filled, note the 'login' button has NOT the same action as the one by the upper right corner. Yes, THAT one that shows you ARE logged-in.
So this stupid time-out setting thinks this is a site with lots of traffic and needs such stupid protection that we never needed before.
Obviously nobody controlling this site never posts a thing to feel it in their own flesh...

Hint : When it refuses to post and asks to log-in again; do not; instead go back, copy your text and paste it again later.

"Well, thinking of buying my next TV, plugged back... and it works fine. Now no justification for a new TV .
Anyway, somehow, Murphy strikes again."

Shoulda started with the reboot, but maybe you want a new TV anyway, the 4K smart ones are reasonably priced now.

Yes, I did cycle power as first action, did not mention that.
Today, did not respond to remote again. Turned on with panel button, and after a while, obeyed the remote. Intermittent something. Perhaps I will end beating Murphy this time as cannot probe any circuit in it.

Sounds like a unstable power supply in the set.

More than likely electrolytic capacitors in the regulator section.
These newer LSI chips require tighter voltages, and even the smallest of voltage drops, or spikes can cause them to function erratically.

Thou......
I have been seeing good prices on new televisions, so maybe get a new television.
Then take the old one, and fix the power supply and put it in your Rec-Room, Bed Room, or maybe use it as your computer's monitor.

Just a thought.


Signed: Janitor Tzap

Hi,

I had a problem with my AOC TV a while back and replace the four low voltage large value electrolytics and it worked again and continued working. The power button on the TV itself became a problem too though, it would not work every time. I had to hold it in for like 4 seconds and hope it would work. The remote worked it just find though, and i did not bother to take it apart again to fix teh power button on the TV itself.

This is probably one of those "if you feel like playing with it" problems, where you can try a few things like replacing the electro's and maybe that will work. You could just get a new one though because the new ones have better features like USB stick read, which will read some types of files on the USB stick and display on TV. The Jpg's work on mine, but maybe the newer ones can do video too now. Would like to have one that does video right from the USB stick.

PS
Your idea to hit the back button and copy text and then go log in again SAVED me the hassle of typing my post again. I would have had to type all that text above again if it were not for that. Thanks a bunch for that tip.
I have to wonder what happened to the software for this site too. It's like it went backwards.

Janitor Tzap wrote: ↑Tue Aug 21, 2018 6:41 am ... fix the power supply and put it in your Rec-Room, Bed Room, or maybe use it as your computer's monitor...

Got a couple of largish junked TVs with cracked screen... Removed the display and boards; left the white diffuser and backlights.
They are hanging flush in the ceiling giving very good light in my shop
Now I have 47" Samsung lamps...

Externet >>> i've scrapped lots of backlight leds and have recycled the screens..the screens worked great with my large led clock i posted about earlier.
to work the led strips, i used small 300ma boost inverters to drive the leds.

My shop set is a Vizio smart set and it would turn on from the remote but no other remote buttons worked, and only unplugging it turned it off. The remote was swapped with another proven remote with the same result. I found a power and main board set online for around $30. Swapped them out with the same result. Getting ready to send the boards back, I put the original ones back in and everything worked! A week later, it failed again. I found a small module for the IR in the front of the set that I had overlooked, found it online for around $5, changed it, and so far all is working. The module looks like an IR sensor with a small chip. I can't believe it is much more than a IR detector, but how it worked only for the on IR ON pulse and nothing else defies my logic.

Another Vizio smart set will turn itself on and the remote or set buttons have no control. The boards were swapped in warranty and still, from time to time, it watches a show all by itself. The problem is, we don't like the shows it watches.

I would just junk the sets, but their picture is great; the sets are just too smart.

Once had a TV that turned on from ON/Off, channel change and volume change etc. So on your set with bad module; (guessing) any signal would turn it on, but with code modulated on the signal garbled it could do nothing else.

Cheers,

The LG televisions have a strange habit of wanting to connect a new audio device, when I would change the channel.
Or just loose the audio sync to the picture. Thus, there would be a 1 to 2 second audio lag from the actual video.

Also ran into the problem with a DVD Player/Recorder that had some of it's functions on it's remote that effected the TV.

Had an RCA TV that stopped responding to the Universal Remote after the set experienced a AC brown out.
But after I used the set's Original Remote, it then excepted using the Universal Remote again.

I worked on a woman's BETA Max Video Recorder that just stopped taking any push button commands from her remote,
or from the buttons on the unit itself.
I asked her if the power had gone out, or if there had been a AC brown out.
She said that it had the night before.
So I went and unplugged the unit, and left it for 2 hours before plugging it back in.
It was now reset, the buttons and remote were working again.
Had to reprogram the channels back in and set the clock.
Told her to get a good surge protector strip to plug her equipment into.

EDIT:
In the past 5 or so years....
Televisions, DVD, DVR, Satellite/Cable Boxes have instructions in they're manuals,
that tells you to plug them into a surge protector strip first, before plugging the surge protector strip into the AC Wall Socket.


Signed: Janitor Tzap

you can probably turn off Bluetooth somewhere in the TV settings so it won't connect to audio devices, was this a particular LG model?

haklesup wrote: ↑Mon May 06, 2019 12:54 pm you can probably turn off Bluetooth somewhere in the TV settings so it won't connect to audio devices, was this a particular LG model?

Nope, The set wasn't Bluetooth enabled.
But it did have WiFi, but it was turned off in the settings.
As for "particular LG model"....
I found that it happened with 70" down to 32" Sets.
I remember being at Best Buy, and using the remote on the demo television that was setup,
and they even would randomly say that it wanted to connect to some audio source that wasn't there.

More recently, I just purchased a 28" LG television just some two months ago.
It seems they finally went and upgraded the firmware, because the setup and control interface is completely different.
So far, it hasn't been randomly wanting to connect to anything.


Signed: Janitor Tzap

if it was not Bluetooth, then what wireless protocol is capable of automatically trying to connect to new audio devices? I've never seem WiFi used for that application directly (audio direct connection) . Was it for LG speakers?

I gave away my older LCD LG TV when the smart TVs came out and I switched to Samsung which I like very much. That older model used more electricity than it was worth to keep.

haklesup wrote: ↑Tue May 07, 2019 4:18 pm if it was not Bluetooth, then what wireless protocol is capable of automatically trying to connect to new audio devices? I've never seem WiFi used for that application directly (audio direct connection) . Was it for LG speakers?

Don't know.
All it would say, was that it detected a new audio device.

haklesup wrote: ↑Tue May 07, 2019 4:18 pmI gave away my older LCD LG TV when the smart TVs came out and I switched to Samsung which I like very much. That older model used more electricity than it was worth to keep.

Yeah,
The LCD sets with CFL back lighting could use almost as much power as an old CRT set.


Signed: Janitor Tzap