T&L Publications

The fuse in the ammeter circuit is a Buss AGX2. It is the same diameter as the AGC but about 1/4 inch shorter. I have not been able to find a source. Can anyone give me a hint?

Russ,<p>I assume by AG fuse you're talking about the 3AG size 6.35mm * 30mm. That being the case I suspect the fuse size you are looking for is the 5mm * 20 mm (1/8"* 3/4") , which is the size my meter takes.<p>I'm sure BGMicro stock them. Other than that I only know of outlets in the UK and Australia.<p>Scrap that I've just looked up the RS Components catalogue they go under the name of Littlefuse. RS only stock the 8060A and 8062A in Oz and for those the fuse is a 3A in min q's of 5 at A$3.99 each. See the UK website for possibly a wider selection. <p>Rapid in the UK also sell them in singles much much cheaper than RS unfortunately they'll only export for min orders of £75.00.<p>
Colin<p>[ May 26, 2003: Message edited by: bodgy ]</p>

Russ,
They are AGX size (6.35mmX25.4MM) I have a fluke
8062A. There is a local distributor in my area
that stocks them. Standard Supply CO.
1-800-453-7036 or 801-486-3371. Call and ask for
sales. They accept credit cards.
Ned

Thanks, that should work for me.

If you touch a hot soldering iron to a glass "littlefuse" for a few seconds, the metal end will just pop right off. You can then install a new fuse wire, either copper magnet wire (current subject to experimentation) or buy a cheap new fuse and cannibalize. That will get you a quick and cheap solution...

Sounds easy, gadgeteer, but I'm not convinced that you won't compromise the characteristics of a fuse element somewhat by doing that. Granted, that's pretty much how they're originally assembled, but still .... if protecting an expensive DMM, I'd want to be sure about that fuse, both for my protection and the protection of the DMM. You can always get replacement parts directly from Fluke if you can't find any other source.<p>Dean

THe hard part is getting a good solder connection between the fuse-wire and the endcap. Easy to do on ONE end, but harder when you're re-assembling the SECOND end. Any "compromise" you might do, would be to LOWER the max current; besides, fuses almost always pop in the MIDDLE --- and deffinitely if it is the wide strip of metal wi8th narrow-middle...<p>I was fixin' my brother's car radio, and popped a fuse; #40 guage magnet wire (or 36, something like that) fixed it just fine; except it popped every time at anything over HALF VOLUME. Too low current. THREE strands, and it's good for an amp (I measured it) --- pretty repeatable.<p>...but for an expensive meter, buy an exact rated fuse, and salvage the wire. You will not get MORE current, nearly certain the SAME. Just make sure it's "slow" or "fast" as the original calls for...

I needed simmilar fuse for my Fluke 8842A. Got mine from Mouser.<p>Denny