cable tech help

[geewiz]

Chris, those torx bits are readily available. The screws in question are different. The best description I can come up with would be to say that they look like an fat asterisk. I'm told they're similiar to nintendo screws; that a nintendo bit would work.

[IRONMAN]

You guys can be proud of me, I took an old beat up flat-head srew driver and my trusty moto-tool, and cut it out kinda' in the shape of a tuning fork, it work perfectly, and your right geewhiz it fits nintendo screws also.
Saved myself 28 bucks, thanks for the suggestion chris!

[geewiz]

IRONMAN, regarding 3-wire v 4-wire, I've pasted the following from ID by user Conner(someone who has helped me out more times than I care to admit):<p> <blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr> The following may not hold true every where. This has been tested in many areas and has been working for the last 4 years with the most common 4 wire QB and original Universal 4 Wire Automatic Multimode code.<p>1. This test device can be used is all Jerrold units - DP7, DPV7, BPBB7, CFT20xx, and CFT22xx. It can be used in units ending in R2, P/R2, P/R2S8, V5, V5B, V5S8, TIS8 and SB.<p>2. It works Multimode as well as Auto Multimode systems.<p>3. Some of the older 3 wire devices, wouldn't work units ending with R2 or V5.<p>4. If you don't connect 4th wire, the device will act like a 3 wire QB.<p>5. On the 106.5 and the 108.5 systems tested, using the 4 wire device with all 4 wires connected properly has allowed a unit with the frequency of 106.5Mhz to function perfectly on a 108.5Mhz system and vice versa.<p>Using 3 wire QB's would not allow 106.5 and 108.5 units to be interchanged on systems <hr></blockquote>

[IRONMAN]

geewhiz;
The frequency does'nt matter does it? the jerrold boxes I'm planning on buying are 89.3 MHZ, and I know my local caco uses 106.5 MHZ.
But as long as I use a "test aid" or my RFT it will turn on all channels regardless, right?

[geewiz]

The frequency referred to is the data channel carrier. So no joy. However, it may be possible to change out the crystal, but I don't know it if would be just a simple matter of swapping out. Hmmm.

[IRONMAN]

You mean that the box you plan on "chipping" has to be the same frequency that the caco uses?
I thought once "chipped" it simply turned on all channels? Now I'm really confused.
When you chip one for personal use you check the freq. of the box before-hand?
Should I just buy one of those universal boxes? I wanted to do this my-self.

[geewiz]

If you're in an area where multimode is used, you unit wont be able to keep up with updates if the data frequency of settop doesn't match teh caco's. some units (notably the cft-22xx) may actually shut down if it can't receive caco data. In non-mm areas, frequencies needn't match. Hey, if the unit and test aid is cheap enough it's a worthwhile project. <p>And lastly, remember that if your system is currenty (or about to) introducing digital, then all the good channels (most premiums, ####3 & PPVs) are migrating to those tiers. An analog unit would still get a couple of premiums (eg hbo1, sho-east), but it would be mainly basic tier stuff. The secondary HBOs, et al are most likely digital. Your milage (and market) may vary.

[IRONMAN]

Geewhiz;
O.K. finally got all my equipment, now where do I find a schematic? I opted for the three wire Q.B. (I don't live in a multi-mode area.) and a jerrold cft 20xx box.
Also the I assume the notch in the chip that came with the Q.B. lines up with the notch in the socket?
Thanks a bunch.

addendum:
I did a little research; found a couple of schematics showing where the three wires tie in, however one web site mentions plugging the Q.B. in where one of the factory chips is installed, I thought you just connected the wires from the Q.B.
it certainly looks like it plugs into a socket (long wire wrap leads.).<p> I found this, is the info here applicable to the Q.B. i purchased?<p>http://www.ccelectronix.com/troubleshooting.html<p>[ June 12, 2003: Message edited by: IRONMAN ]</p>

[geewiz]

It's an easy install: Cut + lead (or remove entirely) the battery locted under tuner module (located lower front right of unit, under tuner) wire 1 to 5v; wire 2 to left side of data jumper (w/ front of unit facing you); wire 3 to ground. Remove the jumpers from the outside pins on the QB and wire your momentary switch there. This is it for the 2014 units.<p>id-discussions has all the diagrams you'll need; check the file section there. Or PM me and I'll forward the appropiate one to you if you can't find it. Some notes:<p>Data jumpers may not match the diagrams. If in doubt about which jumper, take a vom to the jumper; you should see reading just under 3v (and fluctuating)<p>If you have more than 2 F connectors on the back, it 's equipped with what I believe is called a talkback unit. This would be located just left of the ac cord. You can remove this unit; note that it's connected to mainboard via ribbon cable. If no module there, you can use that backplate (with the elec. hazard symbol) as mounting point for your momentary switch. <p>PM me with an email address you don't mind exposing and I can send you pics of a 2014 I keep for reference purposes. I'll edit it to show connection points and indicate which modules can be removed from your unit if neccessary. Or, if possible, send me a pic of the internals of your unit and I'm mark it up accordingly and send it back. I'll pm my email to you.

[IRONMAN]

Q.B. pic
The above is a pic from ez-catv.com.
there are two jumpers(looks like they tie two pins of the chip to either +vcc or ground.).
Which one do I replace with a switch?