Small TV & External Speakers

[fine-tune]

I just purchased an LG 22" TV (22LB4510).

The sound quality improved after changing some of the settings in the
audio menu. For a small LED TV the sound quality is acceptable.

I plugged-in a pair of external speakers to the 3.5mm jack. No sound.
The manual is written in plain english, but 90% of the menu options are
ignored. I returned to the audio menu and disabled the internal speakers.
No change.

Before calling LG tech support I tried one more "it couldn't hurt" fix. I used
a "Y" adapter with phono plugs (L & R) and a 3.5mm jack. I know these
ports are usually inputs, but I decided to try before wasting a call to LG.

I dialed the LG number several times. The recorded menu asked about
the product category. I kept shouting TeeeeVeeee!!! I was connected to
mobile phones, washing machines, etc.

I finally got connected to a TV tech person. He told me to shine a flashlight
on the 3.5mm port. Stamped into the black plastic it says "Service Only."
The LG representative said TV technicians know how to use this port for
audio output. He wouldn't say anything else. Guys, if you know how to
get audio from this port please tell me.

I'm using one of Comcast's DTAs (Digital Transport Adapters) with this small
TV. If you're not familiar, it looks like a mini cable box. It has RF in and out
plus an IR port. That's it. The LG tech suggested using a cable box audio
port, but DTAs don't have one.

[Lenp]

A quick look online at the manual doesn't show any audio outputs. That's a handicap if you want to add a sound bar. Since you will have to 'y' connect to the source audio it's problem if using antenna or HDMI inputs. I have a Visio and it has an optical link for the sound bar. Any audio passes to it

[Externet]

Hi.
Just open the television and install at a convenient case location a stereo or two monophonic jacks wired to the internal speakers, cancelling or not type as preferred.

Miguel

[Lenp]

Sure that will work if there is a common for both speakers. Since this set uses an external power pack line isolation should not be an issue. Years ago on line operated sets we installed isolation transformers. Be careful if it' is still under warranty. I would not mount a jack but use a cable ended extension jack and fish it through an opening. It leaves no evidence of tampering if it needs warranty service.

[haklesup]

for all we know that headphone jack is actually a serial port though the specs do list one PC audio input on the back. Is this what you are trying to interface to? If so it is only an input when using the TV as a PC monitor.

Search for the "Magic phone speaker" I think these use magnetic induction top pick up audio from the speaker and amplify it. Not exactly a hi fi link though.

Nice little TV but if you really want external audio, you should return it and get a more featured model.

[CeaSaR]

Lack of discrete I/O is becoming more and more prevalent as the years progress. In the rush to push digital on the populace, analog has been basically thrown away. Luckily, there is a thriving aftermarket for products to give us back our "human" analog ways.

After looking at your Television's (TV's) I/O specs, it is quite apparent that you are SOL for any audio output. So, a quick search shows a post to Tom's Guide and a link therein to a HDMI Switch with multiple types of audio outputs, including a 3.5 mm jack. All you'll need after that is an amp to power the speakers.

That is the least intrusive way to solve the problem, and it saves you from voiding your warranty. If you want to crack the case open (and void the warranty anywhere from 90 days to a year) you could install a jack or jacks in line with the internal speaker wires, switched of course, so that all you have to do is plug in external speakers and let the internal 5w amps power them. Ultimately, that is the least expensive and, I believe, the smartest way to go. You won't need any other components or remotes to control anything. (Still won't do anything about the fact that HDMI audio levels bite compared to analog)

CeaSaR

[fine-tune]

This has nothing to do with my post, but I just had my upper wisdom teeth
extracted. My eyes swelled shut. After that I kind of lost interest eating,
sleeping, and small TVs! The swelling is almost gone after drowning my
head with ice for 24 hours.

Remember those incredibly cheap 13" (CRT style) B & W TVs? Years ago I would
buy two or three and tinker with them like crazy. I never cared about the warranty.

I'm not an old man, but all of my younger years were spent with analog devices.
I guess I just assumed that all TVs had at least one audio port.

This 22" TV cost $142.00. I'd like to keep the warranty intact. There were mostly
positive reviews about this model, but the negative comments were all about sudden
failure.

I might fish a cable through an opening, if the job is simple and results are good.
All you do is solder a jack to the speaker wires and you're done? Is it really that
simple?

CeaSaR, when you mention the poor quality of HDMI audio levels, it doesn't seem
like wiring in a jack is the answer. Buying that HDMI switch would be like swatting
a fly with a sledgehammer, don't you think?

Magnetic induction audio gizmos have been around for several decades. I remember
breadboarding induction pickups when I was a kid.

I've got two big flat-screens, but I refuse to wear eyeglasses in my bedroom. For
years I had an ugly cart with a small TV that I kept next to my bed. I decided to
build a furniture grade cabinet/cart. Concealed in the cabinet is a mechanism that
adjusts the top to any viewing angle. That's why I purchased this small LG TV.

I appreciate all your replies. Thanks guys.

[Lenp]

""Still won't do anything about the fact that HDMI audio levels bite compared to analog""
I don't understand that comment!
HDMI is all digital signals. If there is a quality or level loss between inputs it's likely to be a receiver issue.

[CeaSaR]

All my experiences with HDMI and audio relate specifically to use of the HDMI inputs as compared to the analog or other inputs on my TVs.

For example, my Dynex TV has 10 watt amps for the built in speakers. If I use any of the 3 HDMI inputs and turn the volume all the way up, it is hard to clearly hear if someone is having a normal conversation. Yet, if I use any of the other component, rf, or in the case of Chromecast, USB, it is overbearingly loud at 1/3 the volume control. I've been through all the settings on the TV and the cable box, to no avail. And here's the kicker, I have the cable secondarily ported through my VCR (yeah, I still use one) and it does the same as the other analog ports - 30 vol will hurt your ears. And it did this with Comcrap and now FIOS.

Sorry, not a fan of HDMI for audio.

CeaSaR

Oh, I forgot to add that other people I know with other big name brand TVs have noticed the same thing. Comes from having kids and a long history of console video games and other ancillary video products to notice these little things.

[Lenp]

That's not typical of most receivers. I have two Visio sets and there is no difference between the HDMI, composite or RF input audio levels. You are blaming HDMI but that is a digital signal. Like all digital data if it is 'weak' it will be below the threshold and will either stop or break up. The conversion from digital to analog audio happens in the receiver. It's possible there is a problem with the receiver or maybe there is a service adjustment to balance the audio levels. If HDMI had these issues it would not be such a popular standard.

[MrBi11]

on your Dynex TV press 'input, 2,5,8,0' to bring up a service menu to change the volume settings
http://jalpuna.com/archives/2010/10/pim ... ynex.shtml

[CeaSaR]

Menu comes up but no levels to adjust. And, as I stated above, there isn't anything available in the regular onscreen menu(s).

CeaSaR