opnions wanted on battery reviving of NiCads

[haklesup]

The major advantage of Li-Ion packs for portable tools is weight. Unless you plan to hold this over your head for hours per day, you can get satisfactory intermittant use out of a NiCad pack for much lower cost.

As discussed, it's how you charge and stores your battery that has a major effect on overall lifetime. Storing dead NiCads seems to fare better than storing dead Li-Ion. I have heard that the tool makers put a lot of research into the Li-Ion packs and they took a couple years to reach the shelves. Until HF starts making crappy LiIon packs, we're probably safe with acceptable quality from the major brands.

Most of the HF tools I have are crap but I do have a few jems that work very well. Their large tile saw (the one with the overhead slider) comes to mind. I also have a mallot that still seems to work. Bits and blades work proportional to the price. Inferior materials seems to be the main theme in most products, things like softer metals and no heat treatment help keep the price and quality down.

[ringo47stars]

I like thinking in terms like positive and negative instead of the more popular proton collector and proton emitter/donor when trying to figure out if the battery is good or not. If a battery doesn't charge up then it has too much base/proton collector or negative that might be interpreted as resistance also. So when zapping a battery with a wall wart you could call this reducing the resistance - base - negative - proton collector. Then if you have a battery charger that uses a battery power supply you should see the batteries connected in parrallel with a shunt or modulating circuit that charges up the batteries that need it. But the charging circuit won't zap the batteries because of the precarious balance of connecting the batteries in parrallel. So to zap a battery without too much fear of it exploding you just put a capacitor in series with the battery, while on the charger, for a short time depending on how many times this was done or the condition of the battery. This should work for most types of batteries because it just reduces the negative - resistance - base. This is only for normal problems and might not be good if you tried using a gas for the base to reduce the positive or ion content. If the battery got inbued with gas then this solution would reduce the base/gas even if it is volitile but if it is too volitile it might explode. There are other ways to keep the batteries in good shape by adding a positive feed to them but this is only a response to the original post.
I was going to include another way to reduce the negative/base is to connect the battery that doesn't work with one that does in series for a short while and got confused while posting so i thought I would just repost this one with the correct wording.