Kill switch light

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myp71
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Kill switch light

Post by myp71 »

I have a McCulloch 32cc 2-stroke engine on my bike what would be better to do:<p>1)have a green light to tell me ok to start on my engine kill switch.<p>2)have a red light to tell me that it is not ok to try to pull start the engine<p>Then how would you hook something like this to my kill switch on the engine.<p>Thanks
Myp71<p>I'm sorry if I offened anyone on my last post about C.A.P.S system.I guess I know where you guys are coming from about unlocking things that should not be unlocked I seem to get mad when I know when I fail on projects like this.I still stand behind about not using this system for any wrong doing.Thanks for all the help<p>If you still like to help about a transmitter for 8khz & 8khz at 50% duty cycle that would be great <p>Thanks
Myp71
Ryan
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dacflyer
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Re: Kill switch light

Post by dacflyer »

well i would suspect a green light...most bikes i seen have a neutral switch on the transmission
this indicates your bike is out of gear and safe to start....i you like use a relay and invert this..so if bike is in gear,the red light comes on indicating bike is in gear...follow me?<p>when bike is in neutral the relay is energised and the N.O. part of the relay is closed..
showing a green light (safe to start)
if bike is in gear relay will not be energised
and the N.C. part of relay will be closed indicating the red light....hope it was of help..
bridgen
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Re: Kill switch light

Post by bridgen »

Hi Ryan,<p>I replied to your CAPS posting. Did you get to read it before the thread was deleted ?<p>Regards.
myp71
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Re: Kill switch light

Post by myp71 »

This is a bicycle that I have and it has a kill switch to kill (turn off the engine) sometimes I forget to turn off the kill switch and try to start the engine so it would be nice to have a light to tell me that the kill switch is off on ready to start the motor.I should have explained myself more<p>
Thanks
Myp71
Ryan<p>[ October 21, 2003: Message edited by: my p71 ]</p>
desterline
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Re: Kill switch light

Post by desterline »

I also replied to your post about C.A.P.S., and I think I was the one who offended you. <p>I'm sorry if my statements were overly abrasive, I was having a bad day, and I was iritated at the total rubbish in one of the other posts. I'll make an effort to be gentler in future posts.<p>Back to this thread:
I would think that battery life would dictate the light configuration choice. Running a red light for days / weeks vs. a green light when your using it. (yeah, I guess you could use a red light and then store the unit in the 'run' position so the light's off...)<p>The more interesting issue is how to sense the position of the kill switch. It's been a while since I worked on small engines, but if I remember correctly the kill switch works by shorting the points. <p>Although the points don't see the kilovolts of the ignition secondary, they can easily bounce to 50 or 100 volts on break. Any circuitry connected to the kill switch would be exposed to this. Makes for a more interesting design challenge.<p>I've seen some kill switches that are very clearly marked (Honda's come to mind) might it be possible to use somthing like that and avoid the complication?<p>
BTW, If you're interested http://www.CSMicroSystems.com/TimerDesigner/index.html has a very useful piece of software to do the math for making the circuit you need for the transmitter. Looks like thier site is a little flakey right now. If it doesn't clear up, I'll just e-mail you the file (about 800k).<p>-Denny
myp71
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Re: Kill switch light

Post by myp71 »

I was thinking the same thing about the different voltages coming from the engine and light voltage.
I'm using a simple on/off switch it is marked but I still forget, and on this engine it does not need any more wear on the pull starter because the engine company is not in bussiness anymore I think that they were/are too good.<p>Thanks again
Myp71
Ryan
Bernius1
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Re: Kill switch light

Post by Bernius1 »

If you have access to the magneto when it's running ( usually, loosen the pull-cord housing, hold it on to start, & then pull it off once running) check primary coil voltage with a meter. It'll probably start at an enclosed transistor ( in plastic) on one side of the magneto, and somewhere on top it'll look like two wires carelessly tied together & lacquered. This is where the primary & secondary windings meet. (X-former, with common gnd.) This is to determine usable voltage. If Denny's right about the voltage, I'd use two resistors in series, 10K & 220ohm as a divider, parallel the LED with the 220, & a cap (100V rated) with the 10K. But the more current you draw from the low side, the less spark you'll get on the high side, so be conservative.
Can't we end all posts with a comical quip?
desterline
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Re: Kill switch light

Post by desterline »

I would think thta just reading the voltage accross the existing kill switch while running would tell you what you need to know.<p>Do you want this to be battery powered? Is there battery power available? Let me know and I'll draw up a circuit.<p>-Denny
myp71
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Re: Kill switch light

Post by myp71 »

What do you think would be better? I think battery power something like 3v (2aa) batts or a 9 volt batt both small or if better for you circuit wise I have a 6v gell cell but I would like to leave that alone if possible.<p>Thanks
myp71
sundancer87
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Re: Kill switch light

Post by sundancer87 »

I sent you a PM re: the grocery cart fiasco.
desterline
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Re: Kill switch light

Post by desterline »

I'd be thinking the AAs. What kind of switch is it? My thinking is that some of the older chainsaws I've been around had a typical toggle switch. If you could replace it with a double pole one, the circuit becomes ultra simple.<p>Any possibility of that?<p>-Denny
myp71
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Re: Kill switch light

Post by myp71 »

Yeah,the switch can be replaced just get a double throw switch and hook it up like a regular one?
(even I can figure that out)<p>thanks
Myp71
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dacflyer
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Re: Kill switch light

Post by dacflyer »

you never commented on my idea...i guess your bike has no gearbox ...
desterline
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Re: Kill switch light

Post by desterline »

I was thinking double pole (rather than double throw) but I can imagine either working out ok.<p>As to batteries, -with alkilines- AAAs have about 600mAh, AAs have about 2500mAh, Cs about 6000mAh, and Ds are above 18000 mAh, typical 9V are only 300 -500mAh. <p>Granted these a rough numbers with a lot of "depends on"s (so please don't flame me) But they give you a feel for battery sizing.<p>Also, for a couple bucks, you can buy a blinking LED. You might be able to design one that draws less power, (it'll already draw much less than one that's on all the time) but you can't beat it for simplicity. <p>I would think two D cells should run a blinking LED continuis for better than a year. <p>Whatever works for you.
-Denny
myp71
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Re: Kill switch light

Post by myp71 »

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by dacflyer:
you never commented on my idea...i guess your bike has no gearbox ...<hr></blockquote><p>No it only has a clutch and a medal rod that rubs against the tire and no way to connect up a light on it at least I do not think so.
Thanks anyway <p>myp71<p>[ October 23, 2003: Message edited by: my p71 ]</p>
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