Fixing Apex DVD "no disc" problem

[grant fair]

About 6 months ago I bought an Apex AD-1600 DVD player. Recently it began giving "no disc" messages when a disc was actually in the machine. I have tried with DVD's known to work before, CD's. etc, still the machine says "no disc", at all times.<p>Internet information suggests this is a very common problem. Factory repair costs more than the original DVD, so that is out.<p>Is there a way to repair this?<p>Grant

[sundancer87]

From past experience with CD players I've had, I've been able to get rid of the 'no disc' error by cleaning the mating surfaces of the spindle drive.
I've found that the spindle discs gets dirty and makes the disc slip just a little bit. This slipping throws off the timing and it is detected as no disc.
I don't know if this will help you but it has worked for me many times.
Clean the discs that spin the DVD with alcohol and a cotton swab. Give it a try!!<p>[ October 13, 2003: Message edited by: sundancer87 ]</p>

[grant fair]

Thanks. I took off the DVD coverter today and wondered whether I saw some dust or dirt on the lower spindle disc. I will try your suggestion. Just fiddling about got some discs playing today, but that is not a reliable long-term solution.<p>Grant

[geewiz]

Had the same thing occur with an AD-600A. Used a ratshack cd cleaner and it seems to have solved the problem without me haveing to ever open the unit up.

[Edd]

Some more data on your situation. Since you have already exposed the inner sanctum of its layout. Viewing the typical mechanics, the Disc Carrier Tray moves the disc inward for loading. A common occurrance on that loading sled is the unit not fully being driven FIRMLY into its end position. If you will notice its drive mechanism you will see it to be a small motor that incorporates two pulleys with an interconnecting square belt coupling the motor to the drive mechanics. With time three things typically happen to that belt, it hardens and looses its flex as well as a glaze building up on its surface and it stretches. The end result; slippage, with the unit not fully seating the tray at its end of travel. Time for a new belt.
Considering a fully seated tray, then the laser mechanics is cantilevered up to engage the disc. The platter drive motor with its Disc support spindle passes into the hole in the Disc and its top engages into an upper rotary/ floating spindle support. Internal of each of those, there is a strong ring magnet, the close proximity of each puts that Disc into one DEATH GRIP STRONG lock, until such time as they are parted by the disc unloading mechanism.
Never have run into a "slipping" disc due to lint, fuzz, dust, etc. I really think that only a film of oil would permit a disc slippage!
The Disc is then spun and the Laser initiates a read on the control track of the disc to establish that the spin speed of the Disc is in spec as well as the Disc lateral wobble is in spec and finally to see if the Laser focusing is making a read and that lateral tracking is in order.
The Laser is enclosed beneath the ~ 1/4in clear plastic "fish eye"lens and has an associated drive/tracking mechanism . The Laser optics is supported/suspended in a coil/magnets/ pole pieces assembly, much in the delicate nature of a D'Arsnoval meter movement. Minute linear lateral tracking of the laser mechanics is provided by the magnetically coupled laser unit with its fine/vernier action, in conjunction with a servo driven rack and pinion drive providing the coarse action and moving the whole sled.
That mechanism should be visible to the area to the side of the Laser. It will incorporate: a linearly geared rack that concourses a stainless steel /or/ chrome plated guide rod, the rack engagesthe first of three series gears, with the latter gear being at the servo drive motor. Should you view that mechanism in operation, properly reading and tracking a Disc, note that there is one herky-jerky movement of that gear train, not just one smooth concerted movement such as you might have expected for a linear tracking movement. Its compensating for the linear shift of the Laser proper as it transverses its magnetically supported excursion limits as well as compensation for any lateral wobbulating of the Disc proper. Needless to say ALL of that mechanism is DRY in order to not inhibit such exacting movements. However go 180 deg across from the rack and take notice of that side. That half of the mechanism has some grooving along with some tempered tensioning leaf springs that assure solidity for the mechanics in its slotted grooving on that side. On this mechanical half there is some lube is on that chassis stamped guide. Typically, use a low sag, hi temp grease in the Stearate family or Molybdenum Disulfide. It tends to progressively get all scraped aside with time/pressure. <p>Lastly, the lens above the Laser faces upwards, with the players case affording a generally good shielding of the unit from any optical contamination of the lens. If that lens catches a contaminant on its top center surface its going to present a distortion and it can’t read right, much as the aberration you might experience in having a drop of water on your windshield or on your glasses lens. A shot of Can-o-Air or from a bulb solder sucker should blast off the lightest contaminant. Human breath contains a humidity factor. A more significant contaminant is linters falling down from the surface of the bottom of the Disc, not dust but linters.
Ever caught a strong sunlight beam shining into your home ?, in it you will see tons of micro contaminants floating around in the air, the larger/longer ones are linters.
An unprotected/open Disc' will accumulate these like mad. Some to be spun free later and ending up loose inside the machine and then...!!! <p>{{{I'm sure the initiated has also run into them on your 'puter. Take the mechanical mouse, when the unit goes erratic on tracking. Drop the ball and clean it.... right... well PARTIALLY. Check the lateral X-Y axis rods that the ball couples into and you should find a totally encompassing band(s) around the rods of oil/grease, flooby dust and LINTERS. Almost looks like distorted micro rubber bands. Clean those off and
then you should be fully operational again...until.}}}<p>Another common fault is the manuf press mounting of the Laser/Lens and the tacky adhesive used. The linters cluster and accumulate and may string up and end up across the lens. Take a sable artists brush and clean off as many as possible from the tacky adhesive and get the balance individually with a set of fine surgical type tweezers.
Slight posssibility of lens contamination via airborne carried grease if the unit is located adjacent to the kitchen.
Also from carbon particulate matter from fireplaces.
Nicotine/smoke contamination of the lens.. Heavy smoking environment.
All of the latter cleanse from the lens with a quick artist brush and denatured alcohol cleaning. Minumal/delicate pressure, however.<p>With the onset of time and much use, the platter spindle motors shaft may be depleted of lubrication. If gummed, degrease the shaft and its surrounding top porous bronze bronze bushing and re lube with a drop of new/clean automatic transmission fluid, since you typically won't have a non parrafin base fine instrument oil on hand.
Synopsis:
Loading tray Drive belt ?
Laser sled binding due to lubrication (Not the DRY half......no lube is on it) ?
Lens contamination/micro blockage ?
Older units….Spindle motor up to speed.?..you can get some guesstimation of UNIFORMITY of speed by some Disc labels patterns with them making making a comparative strobe effect when viewed under a 60~ powered fluorescents illumination.
Addenda:
Hey Grant! is a <<coverter>> a COV_er + di_VERTER...... some thing that keeps the mechanism debris free ??<p>73's de Edd
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<p>[ October 20, 2003: Message edited by: Edd Whatley ]</p>

[grant fair]

Wow, Edd, what a checklist! <p>Unfortunately (??) it seems to be working again, at least for now, and I really have done nothing other than open it up and play with the top spindle piece. When the machine does push that forward it kinda goes flying, and there is a lot of room for play in it's landing location.<p>When I did a search on this DVD player (Apex AD-1600)I found many people reporting a similar failure within a few months (i.e. 2) of purchase. Since repair and transportation costs more than the unit, most people do not bother.<p>I am sure the trouble will repeat and now I am real ready. Thanks all!<p>Grant

[Dean Huster]

I have a feeling that Wal-Mart is the sole distributor for Apex in the Western World and it seems to be the least-expensive brand in the store, regardless of the product, including bras and turkey calls. <p>The "sales associates" at Wal-Mart tell me to keep the sales receipt really handy anytime I buy any Apex product, for they tend to drop like flies. A friend has gone through four Apex DVD players and finally got fed up with the brand (even though Wal-Mart was really good about the returns) and swithed over to another brand and is doing fine.<p>Dean

[grant fair]

Dean -<p>I got my Apex up here in Canada at Best Buy, a big box consumer electronics chain owned by Future Shop. The Apex AD-1600 was the cheapest unit they had. There were 3 returned units for sale there when I bought mine. I should have thought about what that might mean! I paid $90 Canadian, which was well below the Apex wesite price of $115 US, so I thought I had a bargain. Oops.<p>Grant