Solder Stations Who/What/Where to buy?

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Solder Stations Who/What/Where to buy?

Post by cato » Sat Oct 04, 2003 4:43 am

I need a Solder Station to repair some expensive radio equipment. I wont use the station often, so I don't want to spend a lot, but I need something better than the $2 pencil I have from radio shack. <p>I have seen the Weller WLC100 on the net for about $47.50.<p>Is this unit good enough or will I be kicking myself?<p>The hard part of the repair job will be the DE-soldering. What do you recommend for that?<p>How many watts is enough?<p>What stations do you use/recommend?<p>Who's offering the best deals on Solder Stations?<p>If you have answers to any of these questions, please post it or them.<p>Thanks

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Re: Solder Stations Who/What/Where to buy?

Post by bodgy » Sat Oct 04, 2003 4:57 am

It isn't one that i use at home, but I'd recommend hunting for a Metcal unit (ebay often have them cheap). The advantages are, there bit sizes esp in SMD you only require a couple and can do most package shapes with them. The big plus is that you can easily change bits whilst the Iron is on - there is a similar system from another company that you can see at or (same people).<p>If that is out of the picture, then a Hakko look alike (Zytronics or something) only if you need easy SMD work, you can by a hoof tip which is excellant for smd work (hoof tips have a hollow in the bit side which you fill up with solder and then just wipe down the side of SMd pins and a joint is made. Works better combined with liquid or jelly flux.<p>After that Antex aren't bad, but the bits are abit of a bugger to change whilst hot (I know I use Antex) De Groot are good don't know if you can get them in the US.<p>Colin
On a clear disk you can seek forever.

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Re: Solder Stations Who/What/Where to buy?

Post by ampedtech » Sat Oct 04, 2003 6:34 am

Get a solder sucker. This device is a hand held, spring loaded, one-shot vacuum piston type pump. Once cocked, melt the solder to be removed, place the nozzle of the sucker as close to the solder as you can and press the release. You may need to suck the same joint more than once.
A trick that I’ve found to be useful is to slightly move what is being de-soldered immediately after the suck while the solder is still molten. This process impedes a joint from reforming with the solder that didn’t get sucked up.<p>A good thing to keep in mind is that components can be heat damaged during a de-solder process, so, use a heat sink to protect the components. <p>Other methods exists. Check out the site below.
If you do this keep in mind that when your friends tell you “you suck” they’ll be right! <p> ... CTLG&categ ory%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F009%5F007%5F004&Page=1<p>The one for $6.99 is the type of sucker I speak of. Shop around quality varies, but the price should under $30.<p>[ October 04, 2003: Message edited by: digitech ]</p>

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Re: Solder Stations Who/What/Where to buy?

Post by russlk » Sat Oct 04, 2003 1:13 pm

I desolder using Soder-wick desoldering braid, 7.5mm. It works great on surface mounted parts, lay the braid so it covers all the leads on one side of the IC, run the soldering iron up and down the braid (don't move the braid). If you pry gently with an exacto knife under the IC, it will come off without damage to the PC board or the IC.
To replace the IC, I put a generous amount of solder on the pads and coat with solder flux. Hold the IC in place and reflow the solder at each pin with the iron. When done correctly, you will need a magnifier to verify that all pins are solderd, or use a continuity checker.
Clean the board thoroughly when done.

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