T&L Publications

I recognize one of your diagrams as a kit I bought from you over a year ago. How's like in the Land o' Lakes? :) Anyway, I got the circuit to work and bent your C++ code to my will. However, I can't get the state to change fast enough to use it for reading RPM (I'm able to read up to 700rpm max). I'...

I have an NTE3102 and am trying to find a circuit that I can use to connect it to my serial port. I figured I'd need to power it with the port's RTS pin so I picked up a 78L05, too. I've been scouring the net and just can't find a schematic close enough to what I need. I'm too much of a noob to trus...

I pulled an IR diode and phototransistor out of an old mouse and have made them work in my 500-in-1 learning kit. Two of the pins are an open-loop when the IR LED is dark and 100k ohms when the LED is lit. I'd like to hook the two up to a serial port but not without some coaching. Here's a circuit I...

Check out the DS1822 device.

Cool! I'll bet these would work well to capture battery temp, too.

Peter, Welcome back from upgrade hades. I've been there countless times. While in the thick of it, I try to remind myself that if it was easy, I'd be out of a job. I read your post on RPM data and couldn't grasp what was happening. Neither could I. I was expecting to get some sort of ripple reading ...

http://delanobay.com/DcGenSet/schemat1.jpg I'm still in electronics kindergarten, but as I understand it, the left side is my power supply. 1 provides power for 3 and 2 provides power for 4. 5 is a pot that allows adjustment of the charge rate. Putting the cart before the horse...is 3 (or 4) a pote...

Just ordered the components for Peter's test circuit from Jameco. Here goes...

Found this while Googling:

http://www.amsterdamhouseboats.nl/voltage_regulator.htm

How hard would it be to replace his manual adjuster with a microcontroller?

CeaSar, Would you be willing to share your wiring diagram? Count on it! - I finally got around to taking some more readings. The frequency counter I have wasn't able to sense the DC ripple, not sure why. So, I tried to fudge something similar by using the stator lead on the alternator and a pulse le...

With the field on one alternator connected directly to 12v, I read 2.95A with my DC current clamp. I needed to shut things down, however, bearings were making more noise than I was comfortable with. So, I didn't get a frequency (RPM) reading yet. I went cheap on the alternators and bought them for $...

The vertical mounting scheme is certainly not what Ford intended when they designed these alternators, so it's definitely a concern to certain degree. The top bearing is sealed on both sides and serves to control thrust play as well. It's not pressed onto the shaft, but it's bushed and cinched with ...

Oops. Forgot to mention the engine is 18hp.

I bought a DMM today with a DC current clamp sensor and clamped around the 4 gauge battery cable between the unit and the battery bank (2-12v deep-cycles). This is where I got the 220a reading. Worked great! The 18.5v was measured across the battery terminals right thereafter. I saw your post about ...

I bolted my project together and started it up today. The alternators appear to perform magnificently together. Not sure exactly what the RPM was, but at half throttle with all four field wires connected directly to 12v (full-blast), my readings were: 18.5V / 220A Looks like I've built myself a 4kw ...

After reading Vern Graner's article in April's issue of N&V I couldn't help but marvel at the tremendous capability of Parallax' upcoming release of their re-designed/modernized Digiencabulator. I hope to have one by April 1st! I couldn't believe it had a range of up to 24v! That's nearly twice ...